Single Copy $3.50. 

T 520 Second " to parties using Machine 1.00. 

ms 

:opv 1 

iNSTEUCTION BOOK 



— FOB — 



DRAFTING AND CUTTING 



Di^ESSES, Basques, Sacks, Coats, Etc. 



— BY THE- 



Si^i^MEN'P D^^FTiNg M/?cpip 




THE Mcdowell garment draftinu machine co., 



No. 6 W. 14TH STREET, NEW YORK, U. S. A. 



The Garment Drafting Machine being secured by Letters Patent, all parties found infringing 
on our lights will be dealt with according to law. 



AGENCIES WILL BE GIVEN TO RELIABLE PARTIES. 



Notice to Dressmakers and Agents, 



Our New Method, supplying a long-felt want, and being accurate in 
every respect and equally useful to the expert and beginner in the profes- 
sion of dress-fitting, is naturally creating a revolution in that hitherto 
difficult art. For, while combining the methods peculiar to the best French 
and American actual measure systems, it has so thoroughly simplified their 
use l)y the introduction of the Garment Drafting Machine (an instrument 
that effects for the dress fitter what the sewing machine does for the 
dressmaker) that any one with 2>erfect ease can accomplish work equal 
to the best performances of Worth or Pingat. 

Notwithstanding its recent introduction to the public, this New 
Method has superseded all those systems that, in their day, were con- 
sidered perfect, having proven its superiority to them. 

Already, wherever known, this New Method is recognized as the 
standard and stands to-day without a rival in its completeness. As a 
result many of our pupils are getting as Cutters $20 to |35 per week, 
which fact is an eloquent and conclusive proof of our claims. 

Many good cutters still adhere to the old systems, unmindful that 
our New Method will save four-fifths of their time by preventing mis- 
fits, and giving immediately to the garments a grace and finish otherwise 
unattainable. 

Many, also, will exercise their old theories to the last, neglectful of the 
progress of science and art ; so to those alone, who are anxious to keep 
pace with the times, gain eminence in their profession and establish reputa- 
tions commanding customers, we heartily commend this machine as the 
only one meeting every demand, and whose powers and beauties, simpli- 
city and accuracy, actual use will readily demonstrate. 



THE FOLLOWING ARE OUR PRICES : 

The Brass Machine Instruction Book, Measure Book, Square, 
Diagram for Setting Machine, Diagram for Measuring, 
Tracing Wheel, Tape Line and Box, with instructions $17 50 

The Nickel Machine, with instructions, and same outfit 20 00 



The Prices for Parts of the System are as follows : 

Instruction Book without Machine |3 50 

" " Second Copy to jjarties using Machine 1 00 

Measure Book. ... . 50 

Square 50 

Box, Cloth Covered 50 

" 25 

Tracing Wheel, Rosewood Handle ._. 40 

" " . 25 

Tape Measure, Best Satine Stitched 40 

" " Kubber Coated 15 

A liberal discount to Dressmakers ordering for Apprentices. 



INSTRUCTION BOOK 



Drafting and Cutting 

Dresses, Basques, Sacks, Coats, Etc, 



— BY Tnt; — 



Garment Deaftisg Machine, 



AS INVENTED AND PATENTED 



A. McDowell. 



THE/AcDoWELLpARMENTpRAFTINGJVlACHINEpO, 



No. 6 W. 14T 



H STREET, NEW YORK, U. S. A. 



NE]V YORK : 
John Polhemus, Stationeu andJ'rinter, 102 Nasi^ad Street. 

18 8 3. 



InK 



. \'^ /#- 



Entered according to Act of Congress, in the year 1883, by 
The McDowell Garment Drafting Machine CoMrANY, 
in the Office of the Librarian of Congress 
at M'ashington, D. 0. 



INTPvODUCTORY. 



The invention of our method of measurement, and the machine to 
simplify it, are the result of our careful study and experiments with the 
various systems, charts, etc., in use. We have devoted the last twelve years 
to investigating this subject, and found that when these charts or systems 
were used their success was due entirely to the judgment, talent and expe- 
rience of the party using them, and that the systems themselves proved 
most indifferent guides, and were only satisfactory when the good sense of 
the dress fitter detected their mistakes and rectified them. While most of 
these systems and charts claimed to give actual measures, nine out of ten 
were merely proportional scales, some on pasteboard and called charts, and 
others on tapes and squares, called systems. 

Each was based on the idea that all forms were perfect and exactly 
similar, and that, because one lady was straight and fully developed, every 
lady must be the same, forgetting that ladies' bodies vary as absolutely as 
their faces, and that to base a system on the measures of any particular 
figure as a guide would equal the absurdity of selecting a photograph of a 
beautiful face to represent the features of all mankind. 

Some ladies after buying a paper pattern that gives no satisfaction, are 
surprised that her neighbor, with similar bust and waist measures, procures 
a pattern that fits her perfectly. Experience only teaches that the old style 
charts, systems and patterns are inaccurate, and that we have no reliable 
rule of proportions. 

Having arrived at this conclusion years ago, we discarded the old theo- 
ries, and have since devoted our time to perfecting a method to overcome 
the objections to the various systems in use, and then, in so simplifying that 
method that anyone could use it correctly. 

Our system of actual measure is the simplest in use, and yet gives the 
contour of the body, or shape of the lady, more perfectly than any other. 

The Garment Drafting Machine is as variable as the measures them- 
selves, and gives to each part of the garment its proper shape, and accom- 
plishing perfectly and simply what the taking of the impression of the form 
failed to secure. 

It requires no guess-work, and almost entirely discards figuring, and 
enables one to perform five times the work that can be effected with any 
other system. It also so simplifies the work that a fifteen-year old child 
can easily learn to fit garments. 

This being the only method that can be imjtiicitly relied on for the 
making of dresses from measure, without refitting the figure, and having the 
testimonials of many of the best cutters and dressmakers that our country 
affords, showing its vast superiority for ease and perfection of fit to any- 
thing of the kind obtainable elsewhere, we submit it to your consideration 
with supreme confidence. 

An extract from one of our references embraces the whole subject within 
a very small space : " You have the easiest method to learn and the best 
to use, and nobody with common sense could be induced to return to a 
chart, square or patterns." 



THE MCDOWELL GARMENT DRAFTING MACHINE. 



IMPROVEMENT IN DRESSING. 

Within the last fcAV years ladies' dress has been making rapid ad- 
vancement, not only in the complications used in its construction, but in the 
art of fitting the figure. 

To-day, unless a lady's dress is properly shaped and well made, all the 
beauty that nature may have bestowed on the figure, or art given, the fabric 
covering it is considered lost ; and the pleasure she might have given those 
surrounding her is thrown away. 

So ladies' dress has gradually grown in importance, and by the aid of 
the sewing-machine has become more elaborate and complicated ; indeed) 
so strong is the desire for variety of design at the present day that no lady 
will have two dresses made in the same style, or tolerate the idea of wearing 
a dress similar to one already worn by another. 

To-day a lady expects to leave her measure and have her dress sent to 
her finished and ready for use. She has neither the time nor inclination to 
submit to experiments in fitting the waist and undergo an hour or two of 
that old-time torture of disrobed endurance, when, stuck by pins and worried 
by unceasing questions, she fain would forego the dress and seek a place of 
peace and comfort. 

By inventing this new method, and the machine that simplifies its use, 
we have obviated all these annoyances. 

The system is " actual measure," as fully as that used by our best tailors, 
and the machine enables us to properly proportion each part according to 
the measure, and draft it without mistake, thereby securing a fit as good, in 
all respects, if not better, than if the party were present and the garment 
had been fitted on her figure. 

Dressmaking, then, to-day is an art, and requires taste, cultivation and 
judgment to follow it successfully, and demands that one should be well 
acquainted with styles. To accomplish this the most attractive fashion- 
books should be patronized. 

By learning what pleases others a correct taste may be cultivated, and 
finalh', one may develop into a competent judge and authority. What has 
been done can be done again, and the chances of rising to eminence in any 
profession always exist. 

Let your motto be : Better work and better pay. 

CUTTING AND FITTING. 

It matters not how much taste is displayed in draping, or how carefully 
the garment is put together, should the proper style or proportions be 
absent, it proves a failure. 

Therefore the most important part of dressmaking rests in the ability 
to properly cut the garment. 

The beauty of the figure and the style and comfort all depend on the 
cutter, and the latter must rely on a method as changeable as fashion and 
as variable as the figure itself, since a perfect result is otherwise impossible. 

We felicitate ourselves on the ability to ofi^er you what challenges com- 
parison and stands without an equal in this line. 

Ladies are the natural dressmakers, but unfortunately their efforts have 
been clogged by incorrect methods ; from infancy up they have seen gar- 
ments made from patterns, and fitted on the form, pinned in here, let out 
there, etc. ; and now time is required to withdraw them from the old paths 



CUTTING AND FITTING. 



where, in comparative darkness, they stumble in a maze of difficulties and 
lead them into a conrse clear, beautiful and satisfactory. 

The advantages that nature has bestowed on women in the matter of 
dressmaking is counterbalanced in men by their experience as, or with 
tailors when fitting from actual measure. Still, there is no reason why 
women should not excel in dress cutting, their taste being better than the 
taste of the majority of men in the profession. 

Ladies, this new method is intended for you ; it is reduced to the simplest 
possible form, contains the least amount of figuring, and has l)rought the 
possibility of mistakes to the smallest imaginable point ; yet, notwithstand- 
ing the fact that it is the " easiest to learn and the best to use," you must 
understand it, in order to derive the full benefit of its capabilities. 

Properly understood, this method will gain you a position that cannot 
otherwise be attained. 

Having mastered this system, you can accomplish that long desired end, 
viz: to fit from measure, without refitting on the figure. 

You will soon grow so expert that you can make dresses, without fitting, 
superior to those fit on the figure. 

You will, also, with the aid of our self-measure diagram, be able to make 
up garments for parties that you have never seen, and who may be hundreds 
of miles distant. With it you can also cut patterns, perfectly reliable and 
certain of giving complete satisfaction. 

As long as nature molds the human form, never expect man's guesswork 
or " ready made patterns " to approach fitting more than one in fifty. 

Perfect yourself in the profession of cutting, and your services will be 
demanded by both customer and manufacturer. To efi^ect this, ])ractice 
measuring ; and when failing to fit, discover the mistakes and guard against 
them in the future. Learn to notice every peculiarity of figure when 
measuring, and make special notes, if necessary, in your measure book. 

Follow our suggestions for peculiarities of figure. 

Make yourself familiar with the machine in order that its lines can b« 
changed without altering the fit, should fashion so require. 

Draft carefully, for " what is worth doing at all is worth doing well,' 
and a habit of carelessness will thwart all our calculations in fitting. 

The next important point is that of making dresses. This subject we will 
treat under the heading of 

HINTS TO DRESSMAKERS. 

BASTING AND FINISHING. 

One reason why foreign dresses are so admired is the splendid manner in 
which they are finished. 

Proper basting is a very important matter, for if the lining and the out- 
side, although cut properly, are not united correctly the result will not be 
such as Avas intended. 

Basting them is the foundation of making, and its importance should be 
generally appreciated in this country. Don't be afraid of using too mnny 
stitches. 

TO BASTE THE SEPARATE PIECES OK THE LINING TO THE OUTSIDE. 

Place the material on the table Avith the wrong side up, Avith the wrinkles 
all nicely smoothed out ; then lay the lining of the front on the goods and 
baste on the sewing lines, using a stitch about one inch long. J3aste down 



6 THB MCDOWELL GARMENT DRAFTING MACHINE. 

the fold line evenly to two inches below the point of the bust, from this 
point to the waist pull the lining about one-quarter of an inch. From there 
down baste evenly. When basting around the darts, full the lining from 
one inch below the top of the darts to the waist line about one-quarter of an 
inch; continue from the waist down plain. 

The goods and the lining are basted evenly under the arm, from the arm- 
hole down, except for the three inches just above the waist, the lining is to 
be fulled a little. The lining on the shoulder is fulled slightly. Lay the 
lining of the back and the side body properly on the material and baste in 
the sewing lines evenly except for the three inches above the waist line, the 
lining is to be slightly fulled in these three inches, say one-quarter inch. 
Below the waist baste evenly. 

TO BASTE THE SEAMS. 

Begin one quarter of an inch above the top of the front darts and baste 
evenly to the waist line, and continue from there down. When the second 
dart slants very much, it will be necessary to full the edge next to the front 
slightly down as far as the waist. The hip dart is basted evenly from the arm- 
hole to the waist ; from there down the edge next to the front is fulled 
slightly for three inches, then plain. In joining the sidebody to the back, 
begin at the armhole, baste evenly for two inches and then full the back 
slightly for the next three inches ; from there down baste evenly. Always 
hold the back towards you when basting. Baste the side seam evenly, 
beginning at the armhole. In joining the front and back at the shoulder, 
full the back and stretch the seam after basting. 

To prevent the armhole from stretching, use a strong thread or cord 
around it when basting. Having properly basted the garment, stitch the 
seams exactly on the sewing lines. This must be done very carefully. Press 
the front darts into shape by drawing them over the knee, then press all 
the seams and stay the edges, first trim slightly and then overseam the edges 
separately. For a better finish bind each edge inside with silk binding. All 
dresses should be finished with an inside belt, which must be fastened on 
each seam, thus relieving the goods of the waist strain. The casing for the 
whalebones in cheap dresses can be made out of the seams, but for good dresses 
it is best to press the seams open and then cover the whalebone with a piece 
of the lining, cut bias and nicely felled on, or with a piece of tape. The 
whalebone must be of good quality and thin at the ends. Clipping the 
seams is necessary, to have the goods lay smoothly. Never trim the shoulder 
and side seams too closely. For fleshy figures, particularly those that break 
open the seams, cut the lining crosswise when the material will permit, 
that is, have the selvedge top and bottom. Some good cutters always cut 
their linings this way, but the majority cut the lining lengthwise, the same 
as the outside. Never allow a customer to put her thumb into the armhole 
when fitting the dress, as she will thereby stretch the armhole and cause a 
fullness in the front of the arm very hard to remedy. 

Learn to make garments well, and induce your customers, if possible, to 
wear becoming styles and colors. As a rule, rich trimming should accom- 
pany rich material, and colors should invariably harmonize. 

Study these points, and when seeking a position as forelady, or cutter, and 
fitter, your value will be greatly enhanced. 

If you would become an expert, and we hope that such is your aim, you 
can command your own price. 



HOW TO TAKE THE MEASURE. 



HOW TO TAKE THE MEASURE. 

Remember that a perfect-fitting garment can only be produced by first 
securing a perfect measure. Before beginning to take a measure always 
place a belt of stiff material, two inches wide, tightly around the waist, and 
see that its lower edge is just at the bottom of the waist — not crowded 
down too much, nor pushed up by the skirts rolled on the band. Have the 
lower edge just at the natural waist. 

First. — The neck measure is taken 
(while standing at the back) just above 
the band of the dress, around the bare 
neck, snug, not loose. Do not allow 
anything for comfort ; the machine does 
that. This measure is shown at 1 on Fig. 1. 

Second. — Tlie xo'idth of hack is taken 
with the tape across the shoulder-blades 
between the arm-holes, and is to be just 
the width you desire the garment to be 
when finished, as the machine allows for 
the seams. This measure is shown by line 
from 2 to 3 on Fig. 1. 

This measure can also be taken by using 
the square as shown on Fig. 4, from 21 to 
22. To use the square, place its short end 
under the left arm, and slide up the gcvuge 
on the long part until it touches the body 
under the right arm. The figures on the 
square at the side of the gauge that touches 
the body, give the correct measure. 

Third. — The underarm length is taken 
with the open hand resting on the hip, 
one inch below the belt, as shown in Fig. 
2. Take the end of the tape between the 
thumb and first finger of the right hand, 
and pass it under the arm with the second 
joint of the thumb touching the arm, 
keeping the thumb and finger straight 
through, neither pointing up nor down. 
Then with the left hand bring the tape to 

the lower edge of the belt. Hold it there with the left hand and draw^ 

back the right hand, and if the knuckles just touch the arm, with the tape 

stretched, it will give the correct measure. This measure is shown on 

Fig. 2, from 12 to 13. Always measure both sides. 

You can use the square in testing this measure as shown in Fig. 5, from 

25 to 26. Care must be used not to use too long a measure, by pressing 

the gauge into the arm. 

Place the short part of the square upon the hip at the lower edge of the 

belt, with the long part running straight up, touching the back of the arm at 




8 



THE MCDOWELL GARMENT DRAFTING MACHINE. 



the shoulder. Then slide up the gauge on the long part until it just touches 
the arm close to the body. Don't let the thin edge crowd up into the arm. 
The figures on the long part (on the side of the gauge whei-e it touches tlie 
arm) will give the correct measure. 

Fourth. — The length of the back is obtained by measuring from a point 
one inch above the prominent bone in the back of the neck, to the lower 
edge of the belt, and no further ^ as shown in Fig. 3, from 14 to 15. 

Caution. — When the back is hollow and you wish to extend it below the 
lower edge of the belt, then mark the length you wish to add to the back 
below the belt, opposite the next to the last interrogatory on your measui*e 

book, which reads thus ; Is the back hollow below 
the belt ? Here you would mark i or ^ an inch, 
as required. This extension of the back below 
the lower edge of the belt is provided for when 
setting the machine ; full instructions for which 
are given in the instruction-book under the head 
of " How to set the Machine." 

Another way for measuring the length of back, 
well adapted for use with the Drafting Machine, 
and especially for irregular forms, is as follows : 
First, when measuring the width of back with 
the square, as shown in Fig. 4, with a piece of 
tailors' chalk make a mark in the center of the 
back just at the upper edge of the square. Then 
measure from the point of the neck down to this 
mark for the upper part of the back, and from 
the mark down to lower edge of belt for the 
lower part of the back, placing the figures for 
each part in the measure-book, for which you will 
see separate spaces provided. The square should 
always be straight across the back, with the short 
piece close up under the arm and straight through, 
pointing neither up nor down, when you make 
the chalk mai-k. 

Fifth. — The arm-hole is measured at the 
shoulder, where the sleeve is to join the body. 
Have the hand resting on the hip and measure 
the arm rather tight, as the arm-hole gets larger 
while making up. The place to measure is shown 
on Fig. 1, at 27. 

Fig*. 2. 

^* * Six'iH. — The length af shoulder is measured 

from the neck to the arm-hole, as shown on Fig. 4, from 28 to 29. It is 
measured just back of the shoulder on the shoulder seam. The machine 
allows for the seam. It is not necessary to take this measure unless the 
shoulder is very long or short. It is useful for a fleshy figure. 

Seventh. — The length of front : Place the end of the tape line at the 
top of the breast-bone at lower part of the neck, and measure down to the 




now TO TAKE THE MEASURE. 



lower edge of the belt at the waist, as shown in Fig. 2, from Y to 8. This 
will give a dress of medium heighth at the neck. If you desire it to be 
higher than medium you should place the end of the tape a little higher 
than the top of the breast-bone, and use a very tight neck measure. 

Caution. — Never measure below the lower edge of thel)elt for the front. 
When you desire to extend the front below the belt, it must be done by 
changing the machine after it has first been })roperly set at the correct 
measui'e as taken. 

Instructions for shortening or lengthening the front for peculiar figures 
are given under the head of " How to Set the Machine." 

KuiUTn.—Heig/ith of front darts: The heighth of the darts are ob- 
tained by tneasuring from a little below the point of the bust to the lower 

edge of the belt, as shown in Fig. 2, from 
10 to 11. Measure for the frst dart otdy, 
being careful not to start too high up. Darts 
should be measured too short rather than 

too long, 

19 

Ninth. — The bust measure is taken over 

\^ the fullest part of the bust, not above it, 
close up under the arm and across the 
shoulder-blades, keeping up a little on the 
back, as shown in front in Fig. 2, and at 
back in Fig. 1 at 4, It is best to take this 
measure while standing at the back, and 
always ascertain whether the same or a 
corsage of a similar bust formation is to 
be worn with the new garments. 

Tenth. — TIte waist measure is taken with 
the belt removed and medium tight, as 
shown in Fig. 1 at 5. Stand at the back 
Avhile taking this measure. 

Eleventh. — 7'/ie hip irieasitre is taken 
six inches below the waist, around over the 
hips, rather loosely, as sliown in Fig. 1 at 6. 
Tlie quantity of clothing and drapery inust 
be considered when taking this measure. 
It is best taken wlien standing :it the back. 

Twelfth. — ^Size of front dart,<. For 
ver>/ small stomach, mark 9 ; for small, 10 ; 
for medium, 11; for large, 12; for veri/ 
large, 13. When setting the machine, use 
two sizes less for princess or polonaise. 




rig. 3. 



Thirteenth.— 77k ////> (7rtr(!. The hip dart is graded as f(dlows : 

V^ry small, 6 ; small, S ; medium, 9 ; large, 10 ; and very large, 12. 
When using the sizes, you notice the hip, and place sucli a figure 



10 



THE MCDOWELL GARMENT DRAFTING MACHINE. 



in the measure-book as indicates the size, or measure with the square as 
follows : 

To measure the hip dart with the .s(juare, take the square in the left 
hand, witli the short arm and gauge hanging down, and place the end of 
the long arm marked A, against the belt, having the lower edge of the 
square even with the lower edge of the belt. Then move the gauge up 
towards the body until its lower end or point just touches the hip. The 
figures at the edge of the gauge nearest the body, on the hi]) dart seals, is 
the correct size. The position of the S(}uare when taking this measure is 
shown in Fig. 4 at 23 and 24. 

Fourteenth. — T/ie sleeve. The length is taken with the arm raised 
to a horizontal position and bent at a right angle, measuring from the 
center of the back to the elbow for one measure, and to the prominent bone 
of the wrist for full length of the sleeve, as shown in Fig. 3, from 17 to 18 
and 19. One half the width of the back to be deducted from each measure. 




Foi' t'tght sleeves, measure around the 
upper part of the arm near the shoulder 
as shown in Fig. 3 at 20, and also measure 
around the arm at the elbow and at the 
Avrist. 

Sleeve length to elbow 

To wrist 

Around the arm, ?/;>p6r part. — . 

Around the Elbow 

Around the Wrist 

Fifteenth. — The length of skirt is 
measured from the lower edge of the belt 
to the bottom of the skirt at front, side 
and back, as shown in Fig. 2, from 8 to 
9, and on Fig. 3, from 15 to 16. 

Length of skirt: 

Front J- 

Side - 

Back -- 



QUESTIONS TO BE ANSWERED. 



11 



QUESTIONS TO BE ANSWERED. 



At what ])()iiit above the waist is the back the 
fullest ? Is it I, -J, or | the way up between the 
waist and the neck? 
Answer 

Is the back very round or nearly straight ? 
Answer 

Is the back hollow at the point where the 
sleeve joins the body ? and will it need to be 
fitted or padded at that point ? 
Answer 

Is the back hollow below the belt ? If so, how. 
much, \ or ^ inch ? 
Answer 

Do you wish the back extended down, or do 
you wish to fill up to the belt with a l)ustle'? 
Answer 

Is the stomach high ? That is, does the belt 
slant up in front, instead of going straight 
around the body ? 
Answer 

Is the stomach small, medium or large ':* 

Answer . 

If one shoulder or hip is higher or larger 
than the other, please notice it ; also any other 
peculiarity of figure. 
Answer 




When taking the measwx'for a garment, strive for exaotner^s. 

When using the ISquare in taking measures, ])e sure that the guage is 
placed upon the long arm right side up ^ that is, so that the /V on the cli]) 
of the guage will be on the same side as the /^ on the end of the square. 

When using the square and guage, hold the square in the left hand, and 
move the gauge with the right hand, placing the thumb partially upon the 
gauge and partially upon the square, so as to prevent its moving until you 
have read the measure from the square. 

For marking all straight lines, remove the gauge antl use the squai'e. 



12 THE MCDOWELL GARMENT DRAFTING MACHINE. 



TO MAKE A LONG OR SHORT WAIST. 

The best result is always attained Avlieu the lower edge of the belt is at 
the natural waist. If you wish to lengthen the waist, crowd the belt 
down, and this will give an increased underarm length. If you wish to 
shorten the waist, place the lower edge of the belt at the ])oint where you 
wish the waist to terminate. Or, m other words, for a long waist use a long 
underarm measure, and for a short waist use a short underarm measure. 

RESULTS OF BAD MEASURING AND SUGGESTIONS FOR 
REMEDYING THE DEFECTS ARISING THEREFROM. 

REMEMBER THAT AN OUNCE OF FREVENTION IS WORTH A POUND OF CURE, 
THEKEFORE BE CAREFUL TO MEASURE CORRECTLY, 

When the bust measure is too large there will be a fullness under the 
arms or in the back. Take up at the side seam. 

When the bust nieastire is too tu/ht, add goods at the side seam. If the 
buttonholes are not made add some down the front line. 

When the back measure is too wide, take up the centre seam of the back 
and add to the front down the front line, or if the bottonholes are made 
you might trim out the armhole at the back a trifle, and increase the size of 
the sleeve at the armhole accordingly. 

When the back measure is too narrow, the front will be wide and there 
will be fullness in front of the arms. Give what goods you can in the 
centre seam of the back. Take up the front on the fold line, and trim the 
armholes in front, 

Whe7i the armhole measure is too large there will be fullness back of the 
arm. Take up at the shoulder ocani back of the arm. 

When the armhole measure is too tight it will bind over the arm, and 
draw the goods up from the hip. Let out the shoulder seam back of the 
arm, 

Wlie7i the length of back measure is too long the garment will be too 
high back of the neck. Take up the shoulder seams and trim the neck. 

When the length of back is too short the garment w\\\ bind each side of 
the neck and be short at the waist on the back. Loosen the shoulder seams 
and drop the back down to its place. This will make it low at the back of 
the neck. Piece the lining, and if the goods are cut, hide the piecing by 
trimming, or with fancy collar. 



RESULTS OF BAD MEASURING, ETC. 13 

When the front measure is too long it will be too high in front at the neck, 
and too loose on the shoulders at the neck. Take up the shoulder seams 
and cut out the neck and front. 

When the neck measure is too large it also will cause a looseness on the 
shoulder near the neck. Take up the shoulder seam. 

When the front measure is too short the garment will be low in front of 
the neck and be tight or hind on each side thereof. Loosen the shoulder 
seams. 

When the neck measure is too tight it also will bind back of the neck, but 
will not l>e low in front. Loosen the shoulder seams. 

WJien the mideravju measure is too long the garment will be too low at 
the neck, tight on the shoulders near the neck and extended down at the 
waist so as to cause wrinkles. Loosen the shoulder seams and draw the 
garment up to its place. Fit on the shoulder*, and trim out the armhole 
under the arm. 

When the nnderar)n measure is too short the garment will be too high at 
the neck and short-waisted. Loosen the shoulder seams, and drop down 
until right at the waist. 

When the vmlst measure is too large the back will be loose. Take up the 
side seam. 

When thev^aist measure Is too tight add goods at the side seam. 

DorCt mistah' the lap dart seam for the underarm seam in maldng altera- 
tions. 

When the hip measnreis too fight the skirt will ride up and wrinkle at the 
waist. Add goods at the side seam, and if more are required, at the fold 
line in front, and at the center seam of the back. 

If the hip dart is too small it also will cause the skirt to ride up and 
wrinkle at the waist. Add goods at the side seam, or take up the hip dart 
at waist, if possible. 

'Three things cause wrinkles at the waist, the underarm length being too 
long, the hip dart being too small, or the skirt measure over the hips too 
tight. Ascertain which of these causes the difficulty, and remedy as sug- 
gested. The safest course while learning, is to take a loose hip measure. 

Bad basting may cause wrinkles anywhere in a garment. In fact the 
most i)erfect garment can be so distorted by putting it togethei- that it 
will be spoiled. Learn to baste. See Hints to Dressmakers. 



14 THE MCDOWELL GARMENT DRAFTING MACHINE. 

SAMPLE MEASURE. 

This Measure is used for Practice throughout the Book. 

Inches. 

Neck 13 

Width of back 13 

Length of back 16^ 

Underarm Length 8 

Armhole 15 

Shouhler Length — 6 

Front Length 13^ 

Front dart hight . 5 

Bust measure 37 

Waist measure — 24 

Hip measure 41 

Size of front darts 12 

Size of hip dart 9 

Length of skirt, front 38 

" " side 38| 

" " back 39 

Sleeve length to elbow, 18^ ; to wrist, 27^ ; less one-half width of back, 

62 inches ; leaves length of sleeve to elbow, 12 ; and to wrist, 21. 
Sleeve width, upper part, 12 ; Elbow, 11^ ; wrist, 8. 

Always answer the following questions in your measure book, as certain 

changes in drafting depend on them. 

Is the back round or hollow ? If so, how far above the waist ? 

Do the shoulder points drop to the front ? That is, must you fit back of 

the arm, where the sleeve joins the back, or at the top of the side seam 

Is the back hollow below the belt, and if so, how much ? ^, or ^ inch ? 

Is the stomach high ? 

TO USE THE DRAFTING MACHINE. 

Apply the several measures taken each to the part arranged for it. The 
words stamped along the several scales on the machine indicate the meas- 
ures you are to take from your measure book for setting that })art. 

Always set the machine in the following order : 
First, set the back. 
^Second, set the side-body. 
Third, set tlie front. 

The figures on cuts No. G, 7 and 8, represent the order in which the ma- 
chine is to be arranged. Looking at cut 6, we find (1) at the arm- 
hole ; this indicates that this is the first part of the back to be set. We 
find in our measure for practice that the armhole is (15), so we set this 
part of the machine at (15). 

Next set the part marked (2) which is the width of back, to the 
measure given which is (13), and then set the parts marked 3, 4, 5, 6, 
7, and 8, in the order named to their several measures, as given. 

In the following instructions, the figures on the left side correspond 
with the figures on the cut, and represent the order of setting the differ- 
ent parts of the machine, and the figures on the right of the instruc- 
tions are taken from the sample measure, and are to be found in the scales 
on the machine. 



TO USE THE DRAFTING MACHINE. 



15 



Sample 
Measure 




(8) 



(8i) 



Fig. 6. 



THE BACK. 

1st. Set 1 , the armliole, to the measure (15) 

1 2ncl. Set 2, the width of back, to the measure (13) 
3rd. Set 3, the lower part of length of back, 

to the underarm length . - - 

4th. Set 4, the upper part of length of back, 
by the length of back measure less 
underarm length. Thus : length of 
back 161, less underarm length 8, 

leaves 8i for upper back length 

Set 5, the neck, to neck measure (13) 

Set 6, the shoulder, so as to bring the 
point of the armhole marked A on 
the diagram directly over the point 
marked B, for medium style. If the 
shoulder is very long or short, then 
measure for shoulder and set at 

measure — 

Set 7, the back of a waist, according to 
fashion, wide or narrow. Place the 
centre of screw at size 3 for medium 
or a 24 waist - 



5th. 
6th. 



1 Vth. 



(6) 



(3) 



8th. Set 8, the skirt of back by placing the 
centre of screw at the same figures 
that you used at the waist above. 
That is, if you set at 3 at the waist, 
also set at 3 for the skirt 



(3) 



To Marie the Baek.-M^vV outside for cutting, 
and inside for the sewing lines, and at the lower 
edge of cross-piece at the waist for the waist line. 
To" get the hollow of the back, mark a line from the 
wide seam line at waist line, up to the full j^oint of 
the back opposite B, thus gradually deepening the 

seam from that point down to the waist. This will 

give us Fig. 7. 




rig. 7. 



16 



THE JIODOAVELL GAUlVrENT BlIAFTING MACHINE. 




Fig. 8. 



THE SIDE BODY. 

That part of the side body v^hich. joins the hack is set 
first. 

1st. Set ], the circle of side body, at tlie same 
figures as you will find on the circle of 
the back designated by figure 0, on cut 
6, diagram of back in this case, it is.. (11]) 

2nd. Set 2, the side seam, by the underarm 

length (8) 

3rd. Set 3, the waist, at the waist measure, 
less the number of sizes used on the 
back at the Avaist. Thus : waist 24, 
less 3 used in the back, leaves 21, 
which is the number to use here (21) 



Remember the number of fashion sizes used on the 
back at the waist, must come oflf the side body at the 
waist 

4th. Set 4, the skirt, at the hip measure, less 
the number of sizes used in the skirt 
on the back. Thus : hip measure 41, 
less 3, the number used on the back, 
leaves 38 (38) 

To 3Iarh the /Side Body. — Mark outside for cutting, 
and inside for sewing lines, and at the lower side of 
cross-piece at waist for the waistline. We then get 
Fig. 9. 




Figr 



THE FRONT. 



Ahi^ayft set that part of the front which joins the side body first. 

1st. Set 1, the side seam, at the underarm length 

2nd. Set 2, the length of front, lower part, at underarm length . 

3rd. Set 3, the length of front upper part, at the length of front 
less the underarm length. Thus : length of front 13^, 
less underarm length 8, leaves 5tI 

4th. Set 4, the neck, at measure . 

5th. Set 5, the shoulder, to same figure as indicated on the 
shoulder of the back 

C)[h. Set 6, the armhole, upper part, at the measure 

7th. Set 7, the armhole, under part, to the same measure _ 



Sample 
Number. 



(8) 
(8) 



(H) 
(13) 

(6) 
(15) 
(15) 



TO USE THK DRAFTING MACHINE. 



11 



8tll. 



9tli. 
10th. 
11th. 
r2th. 



13th. 



Uih. 



15th. 



16th. 



Sets, the width of front, to the bust measure, less width of 
hack. Thus : bust measure 37, less 13, Avidth of hack, 

leaves 24 for width of front -. (24) 

Set 9, top of the first dart, at 2^ for medium - (2^) 

Set 10, top of the second dart, at 5|^ for medium (5|) 

Set 11, height of dart, at medium, or according to measure (5) 
Set 12, size of front darts at waist, to the measure, or at 12 
for medium (12) 




Fig-. 10. 

Set 13 so as to make the second dart a little larger than the 
first, between the figures 4 and 5 for medium, unless 
otherwise desired (4 t 

Set 14, the waist size, at the waist measure, unless you use 
the hip dart. If the hip dart is to be used, then add to 
the waist measure the numbei i-epresenting the size of 
hip dart, and set at that figure. Thus : size of waist 24, 
hip dart 9, making 33, over which number fasten the 
centre of screws -- 

Set 15, the bottom of the hip dart, by first moving the left 
side of the hip dart marked C, so it will be nearly per- 
pendicular, the bottom slanting slightly to the right ; 
then move the centre of the screw in the right side to the 
figure representing the size of the dart and fasten it 
there 

Set 16, the top of side seam, so as to bring this line nearly 
perpendicular, the top slanting perceptibly to the left or 
front, as shown in the diagram - 



(33) 



(») 



(8) 



18 THE MCDOWELL GARMENT DRAFTING MACHINE. 



17th. Set 17, the top of hip dart, at the same figure on its scale as 
the centre of the screw of the top of tlie side seam (just 
set) is at, on its scale (8) 

TO MARK THE FRONT. 

To draft the garment begin xoith the front. To mark the front lay the 
front edge of the machine even with the edge of the paper or lining, at the 
distance from the bottom that is desired for the length of the skirt. Then 
begin at the waist line and draw a line along the inner edge of the wide slot 
to the neck. This gives the fold line. 

Then begin at the edge and mark around the outside for the neck, 
shovlder, armhole and side seam, down to the waist line. Then mark the 
inner edge of the shoulder and the inner edge of the side seam for sewing 
lines. Then mark from side seam along the lower edge of the machint; to 
the front, for the waist line. 

Then mark the dart nearest the front, so as to bring it to a point at the 
top. Then mark the second dart same as the first. Then mark on the in- 
side edges of the hip dart pieces for sewing lines of hip dart, extending the 
lines to the ends of the pieces below the waist line, so that they will curve 
towards each other. 

All dart marks are sevnng lines. 

THE FRONT SKIRT. 

To add the skirt or continue the front below the waist line : First extend 
the fold or front line, 18, straight down to the bottom of the basque ; then 
draw line 19. from D, at centre of first dart at waist line straight down or 
with the grain of the lining to the bottom of the basque at E. Mark lines 
20 and 21 so as to extend the dart from the waist line down to l)ottom of 
basque, so as to have the lines 20 and 21 one-third of an inch from line 19 
at E. This is allowed for the seam. Mark the second dart same as first, as 
shown on the diagram and Fig. 10. , 

To extend the third, or hip dart, mark a line thi'ough the centre of the 
hip dart from K, at armhole, through L, at waist line, to M, at Ijottom of 
basque. This gives a line vjJien the hrp dart is properhj set tJiatwUl always 
slant to tJie right. Then make a small cross each side of the line at M, one 
third of an inch distant therefrom. Then, using the outer edge of the wide 
piece of the side body to give the proper curve, place it top up, and draw 
line 2.5. Then turn the side body over, with the sciews down, and mark 
line 26. 

To get the proper spring for line 27, find the width of the front as given 
in the skirt table for basques, opposite the hip measure, measure on the 
hip line {which is six inches beloio the loaist line) from N, on line 18, to O, 
on line 27, the lengtli given in the table, always omitting the spaces oc- 
cupied by the darts. Measure this width with the tape, beginning at N, on 
line 18, meas.ireto line 20, then move the tape along to line 21, and measure 
to line 23 ; again move over to line 24, and continue the measure to line 25, 
and still again move over to line 26, and complete the hip measure for the 
front, which for 41 hip measure is 15. This gives the correct position for 
point O. 



TO USE THE DRAFTING MACHINE. 



19 



Tlieii, using the i^ame part of the side body as was used in marking line 25, 
place the ])oint of the wide piece of side body at the end of waist line, at 14, 
Fig. 10, with tlie outer edge passing through point at O, and mark along 
this edge from the waist line to bottom of basque, and this will give line 27. 
Then mark on the inner edge for cutting line as shown by the dotted 
line, P. 

This gives us the regular three dart front with a skirt up to eight inches 
in length, which is the one most used. 

The dotted line 11 in Fig. 11, shows the curve or swell front. 




A HALF TIGHT FRONT. 

To draft a half tight front set the machine the same as for the regular 
three dart front, and mark all ])arts the same, except the tv^o front (hirtf, 
which are not to he marked, and are not to be taken out. Leaving the goods 
in at this point gives the half tight front. 

You need not add anylhing to the waist size as you get looseness enough 
by not taking out the two front darts. 

Loose sacques and wrappers can be made on this plan. 



A THREE-QUARTER TIGHT FRONT. 

To make a three-quarter tight front set the machine the same as for the 
regular three dart front as instructed on page 17, and mark the same as 
there instructed, except the two front darts. Then move the machine to 
the left so tliat the second dart is h ilf way betvve>'n the hip dnrt and the 



20 



THE JICDOWELL GARMENT DRAETIKG MACHINE. 



fold line, or between where the first and second dart would be if marked. 
Then mark the second dart. The position of tliis dart is shown by the 
dotted line on Fig. 11. This dart is extended below the waist as usual. 

Skirt Rule for Basque, &,c., 6 Inches below the Waist Line. 



FIND IN THIS COLUMN 
THE HIP MEASURE. 


WIDTH OF FRONT 

WHEN FINISHED. SEAMS 

AND DARTS NOT INCLUDED. 


WIDTH OF 
SIDE BODY AND BACK. 


35 


12f ... 


5# 




36. 


I3i 


5# 




Si 


13^.. .. 


.- 6 
6+ 




38 


13^ 




39 


14+ 


6i 




40 


.: 14^ 


.. 64 




41 


.144 


- 6J 




42 


_. 15^ 


.. 6f 

7 




43 


15;^. .. 




44 


._15| 


74: 




45 


16ir . 


7+ 


The Skirt Width 


46.. 


16^ 


74- 


of the Back 


47 


IGf 


.- 7-i 


and Side Body 
you usually get 
when you set 
the Machine 


48 


17i- -. - 


71 


49 


17i 


.. 8 
8-1- 


60 


17|.-- 


51 


18+ 


81 


from the Hip 
measure. 


52. 


184..- 


84- 


53 _ .. . 


isl 


- 8^ 




54 


19+ 


.- 8# 




55 


19A 


9 




56 


19f 


91 




57 


201 -- 


.. 94- 




58 


_. 20| . 




59 


20# 


- 9f 




GO 


21+ 


.. 9| 




62 


.2lf 


..10 
..lOi 




64 


22+ 













CHANGES, EXPLANATIONS AND SUGGESTIONS FOR 

THE FRONT. 

TO EXTEND THE BACK BELOW THE BELT FOR HOLLOW BACKS. 

The lower part of length of back, scale 3, in Fig. 6, is extended down 
one-quarter or one-half inch according to the memoranda made in the 
measure book at the time of taking the measure in answer to the question 
" Is the back hollow below the belt ?" after tlie macliine has b,een reguh^r]y 
set. 

TO LENGTHEN THE WAIST IN FRONT. 

After the machine is all set extend the lower plate of the front (scale 2. 
Fig. 10), the amount desired, say one-half inch. This is used in crowding 
the waist down in front. 

TO SHORTEN THE WAIST IN FRONT FOR A HIGH STOMACH. 

Take off one-quarter or one-half inch from scale 2, at bottom of machine 
in front Fig. 10, and add the same amount to scale 3, at the top, thus 
preserving the correct length of front. 



DARTS. 21 

DARTS. 

In place of using the old rule for regulating the size of darts, wliich was 
to take the difference between the waist and bust measures, and which is 
applicable only to such garments as terminate at the waist, and although 
the drafting machine enables us to use all systems of darts, we have found 
it both expedient and necessary to discard it, and adopt in its stead the 
following method, which enables us to get rid of the fullness at the bottom 
of the front darts, for princess and polonaise, thus accomplishing a result 
unattainable by any other method. 

Our plan is to grade the front dart as follows : Very small, small, medium^ 
large, and very large. Each one of these sizes is represented by a number, 
which is placed in the measure book when the measure is taken. Thus, for 
very small, mark 9, for small, 10, medium, 11, large, 12, and very large, 13. 

Our arrangement for fitting the bust does not depend upon the darts, 
and as the darts extend below the waist, and are important in the fitting of 
a princess or polonaise, we are governed in determining the size of the 
darts by the size of the stomach. That is, if the stomach is medium, mark 
11 ; if small, mark 10 ; if large, 12 ; very large, 13. 

The tops of the front darts can be arranged to suit the prevailing style, 
or the individual taste of the customer. Generally they are set at the point 
marked medium on the machine, which is at 2^ for the top of the first dart, 
and 5^ for the top of the second. They can, however, be drafted in any 
position, as is explained in detail in a following paragraph. 

HOW TO DRAFT THE DARTS IN ANY POSITION. 

There are styles and figures which require the position of the darts to be 
changed from those given on the machine. For example : 

When the waist is over 28 inches, the first dart would be too near the 
front line, and the space between the first and second darts too small. To 
remedy this, set the machine regularly, as instructed on page 17, and draft as 
before, all except the darts. Then, if the front dart is too near the front 
line, move the machine to the right from :|: to | an inch, as desired. Mark 
the first dart, then move the machine i inch more to the right and mark the 
second dart. This places the first dart fartlier from the edge and the darts 
farther apart. The hip dart can be moved in the same way when desired, 
without changing the fit. By moving the machine you can make the darts 
higher or lower than the machine gives them, if you so desire. 

THE HIP DART. 

This dart is entirely independent of the front darts, atid is large or small, 
as the hip is large or small. The sizes on the machine range from 6 to 12. 
Always keep the hip dart slanting slightly to the right at the waist, or the 
dart below the waistline will come too far to the front. If the underarm 
piece between the hip dart and the sideseam is too narrow, mark all the 
front, except the hip dart. Then move the machine slightly to the left, say 
about one-half inch, or as much as may be desired, and then mark the hip dart. 
Always be careful, when moving the machine, to change the position of this 
or any other dart, to keep the iralst line straight, otherwise the darts will not 
have the proper slant. 



22 THE MCDOAVELT. (5AEMENT DRAFTING MACHINE. 

HOW TO LEAVE THE HIP DART OUT. 

Set tlie machine as instructed on page 17 for the three dart front. Shove 
the bottom of the hip dait (marked 1.^, on Fig. 10), to the left out of the 
way. Set the screw at the bottom of the side seam (nntnbered 14, in Fig. 
10) at the waist size. That is, add nothing at the waist or armhole for hip 
dart, but place the screw at the tap of the side seara (numbered 16, in Fig. 
10) as far to the left as it will go, that is, to O on the scale. 

WHEN THE BUST MEASURE IS TOO LARGE FOR THE MACHINE ; OR, 
HOW TO DRAFT THE FRONT WHEN BUST MEASURE, LESS THE 
WIDTH OF BACK, EXCEEDS 31 INCHES, WHICH IS THE LIMIT OF 
SCALE 8, FIG. 10, ACROSS THE FRONT. 

If the bust measure is 47, and the width of back 14, this would leave for 
width of front 33 inches. We open the front of the machine to 31, the 
limit of its scale, and this will leave two sizes less than the amount desired. 
These two sizes, equal to 1 inch (a size on this scale being ^inch), we add 
to the left of the fold line in front, opposite a point 1 inch above the top of 
the front dart at the fullest part of the bust. This changes the fold line 
from a straight to a curved line, as shown by the dotted line R on Fig. 11. 

In case you should ever have to draft a front exceeding 33 sizes in width, 
then allow goods under the arm and at the side seams and a full inch extra 
down the front. Tliis is obtained by moving the fold line of the machine 
back to the right from the edge of the goods. 

WHEN AND HOW TO USE A CURVED FRONT. 

A curved front is used for most figures and is to be preferred on all those 
with large busts, and is necessary for those that are hollow above the bust, 
and wherever there is a tendency for the goods to cross or lap at this 
point. 

If you Avish to use a curved front when setting the machine, take off 
from the measure for the toidtli of front 1 size for medium curve, thus, 
with the bust measure 37, width of back 13, leaves 24 for the width of front. 
Instead of setting the machine at 24, set it at 23, thus allowing one size to 
be added beyond the fold line for the curve. This is added at a poiJit op- 
posite the f idlest part of tlie bust, v^Jiich is one inch above the tO}) of the first 
dart. To draft this curve, draw a line/rom this 'point to the fold line at 
the »ec^• and to the fold line at the waist. Curve these lines slightly, using 
the curve of the side body, or with the tracing wheel on the lining. 

Use \ size for a small curve, 1 size for medium, and 1^ to 2 sizes for 
very large. 

HOW TO MAKE A DOUBLE BREASTED FRONT. 

After having arranged the machine for the regular front according to 
the required measure, as instructed on page 17 or the diagram, simply 
place it on the lining, back from the edge, to allow more goods for lap. 

Three inches back from the edge gives a wide lap. Place it nearer or 
farther from the edge according to the width of the lap desired. In Fig. 
12 on next page the center line is the dotted line C T>. The regular fold 
line A B and the line is J'^ shows the width for double lap. 



HOW TO MAKE THE HIP DAKT, ETC. 



23 




F D H J ^ ^ 

Fi^. 12. 

-XnT^f-a^ HTwrLr.?f. IL^^^r^Tnr- 

MACHINE ^^^^^ ^^ ^^^^ ^^^^^ jj^^jj^g j_Oj,(j 
Avan.^e the .nachine according to the ,neaBU,e as »-""f'=^ ;;';'"' 

n^hon move the machine to (he right ^ men loi ^^^ J 

in Z 7 on^ We found the skirt to exceed the 7 by o niches. Phe 

rrr 't<;^ 't:,; 'xMh- .^ k ..; .a. ..., the ... n. .. 

line V W, Fig. 12, and not at the bottom of the basque. 



24 



THE MCDOWELL GARMENT DRAFTING MACHINE. 



TO MAKE A TIGHT FRONT WITH TWO DARTS, ONE IN FRONT AND 
ONE UNDER THE ARM. 

Set the machine for the three-dart front as directed on page 17. Use 
curved front generally. Move the top and bottom of the first dart as far to 
the left as they will go, and fasten the screws there, thus shutting out the 
front or first dart. Then move the right hand piece of the second dart three 
sizes t<» the left ; thus, if you had marked the front darts 12, after the change 
they would stand at 9. 

Move the top of the second dart to the left, to about 3^, or so as to give 
the dart a good shape, as shown in Fig. 13. 

When the size of the front darts was changed from 12 to 9, it changed 
the slant of the side seam, so that the top at the armhole at L will need to 
be brought to the left about 3 sizes so as to give the proper slant to the side 
seam. This will necessitate the resetting of the top of the hip dart M, so 
that its figure will correspond with that of the side seam L. 

It may be necessary to move the bottom of the hip dart at N slightly to 

the right to give it the proper slant 
and keep it back over the hip, but 
be careful not to change the size of 
the dart or waist. 

Place the machine properly on 
the goods, and then mark the fold 
line, neck, shoulder, armhole, side 
seam, and waist line. Mai'k the 
front and hip dart. Curve the 
front as shown by dotted line A , on 
Fig. 13. The skirt of the front is 
the same as in Fig. 10, or the regu- 
lar front, excepting there is but 
one dart in front instead of two. 
The same rules apply to drafting 
this skirt as to the others. Remem- 
^. ber that the hip measure in drafting 
K\ \ is always applied six inches below 
the waist line and not at the bottom 
of the basque. 

The regular back and side body as described on page 15, can be used with 
this front. 




A B 



Tig, 13. 



HOW TO MAKE A 



SEAM FROM THE TOP OF A DART TO THE 
SHOULDER. 



This is done by extending the dart, as is shown by dotted line C, Fig. 
13. The line continues straight up from the top of the dart for about 
three inches, and then curves slightly to the right, and then a straight, 
line to the shoulder, and should reach the shoulder near the center. Some- 
times, however, it is carried nearest to the neck. Fashion regulates this. 
When the front has two darts, the first dart is the one usually extended. 



HOW TO MAKE A FRONT, ETC. 



25 



LO 



HOW TO MAKE A FRONT WITH TWO DARTS OPEN ON THE BACK. 

Set the machine the same as for the regular dart front as directed on 
page 15, and in measure hook. After the machine is all set, shove the first 
dart, top and bottom, over to the left as far as it will go, thus shutting it out. 
Then move the right-hand piece of the second dart three sizes to the left. 
Thus, if you had set the front darts at 10, after the change it would stand 
at 7. Place the top of the second dart so it will he over the centre. Move 
the top of the side seam to the left, at the armhole, so that the si.le seam 
will have the proper slant, that is, the top slanting about 1 inch to the left. 
Set the top of the hip dart at the same figure as the top of the side seam. 

Have the bottom of the hip dart so placed that 
the dart will slant slightly to the right. This will 
keep the hip dart seam back to its place below the 
waist. Do not use a curved front with this style. 

Fold the goods and place the machine upon them, 
and instead of placing its edge at the edge of the 
goods as heretofore, move the machine to the left, 
until you can see the edge of the goods through the 
slot to the right of the fold line, which is the narrow 
slot in Avhich the screws are placed. 77iis is the 
centre line of the front, shown by B B, Fig. 13. 
When the machine is thus placed on the goods, 
mark as before, and also extend the skirt as usual. 
We have you fold the goods, because you desire 
to have no seam in front. The object of moving 
the machine to the left before marking, is to get 
rid of the goods that the machine allows for fold, 
and lap in the usual style of open front. 




Fig. 



TO RAISE THE SHOULDER SEAM AT THE 
ARMHOLE. 

To give a square shouldered back, add i or \ inch 
to the^armhole of the back, and take off the front 



armhole the same amount. 

WHEN THE SHOULDER BLADE IS PROMINENT, AND THERE IS 
HOLLOW PLACE BACK OF THE ARM THAT NEEDS FITTING. 

Draft the side body as usual, and with a wheel curve the top of the 
sewing line of the circle in at the top \ inch, or more if recpured, startuig 
about 3 inches below the top. 

BACKS OF VARIOUS KINDS. 

BACK OPEN UP THE CENTRE, TO GO WITH THE FRONT JUST 

DESCRIBED. 

The back and side bodv for this front are set and drafted the sanie as 
usual, except that the cutting line down the centre of thej^ack, shown 
by L M Fig 14, becomes the fold line, and goods must be allowed to 
the right of this line, for fold or lap-say about \\ inches-as shown 
by line O P, Fig. 14. This completes a garment open at the back. 



26 



THE MCnOAVELL GARMENT DRAFTING MACHINE. 



HOW TO MAKE A SACOUB BACK. 

Avrange the back and side body as usual, as shown on page 15, and in 
measure book, and mark both the cutting and sewing lines of the back, 

exce])t the circles where it joins the side body. 
Then <lot the seicing line of the circle, 2 inches 
from the arm-hole towards the waist, and dot the 
seicimj line at the waist. Next place the side 
body so that its sewmgline will be over the dotted 
sewing line of the back, at E, the arm-hole, and 
at C, the waist, as shown in Fig. 15, taking care 
to have the arm-hole at E and the waist line at 
C in place. 

Continue the side seam for the skirt as shown 
in Fig. 15. This back is simply the regular back 
A and side body S. as made by the machine, 
drafted in one piece. 




HOW TO MAKE A BACK WITH ONE SEAM TO 
THE SHOULDER. 

Draft the back and side body together as directed 

in the preceding directions for a sacque back. 

Place a dot on the waist line 14- inches to the left 

— ,. ^f. of the center line, or at C, as shown in Fig. 16. 

^ ' * Divide the back just below the shoulder into two 

equal j^arts at .F'from the seam line at the armhole to the seam line at the 

center of the back, just at the neck, as shown from Z> at armhole to E at 

neck in Fig. 16. Then draw a line from F at 

the shoulder to C at the waist. Extend this line 

straight on to the bottom of the skirt at _/i , for 

the side body. 

To get the line C E for the skirt of the back, 
place the back of the machine in the same position 
it occupied when you marked the back, and move 
it to the left or right straight with the waist line 
until either the sewing or cutting line comes to the 
point C, then mark down that edge, and it will 
give you the line C L, as shown in Fig. 16. 

Next mark the dotted line HGat the shoulder, 
that is, curve the side, back to the left, about ^ 
inch. In order to keep the shoulder at its proper 
length, add a piece at the armhole, as shown by 
the dotted line jT, equal to the piece cut out in 
making the curve at H (r. This gives a better 
fit back of the arm. 

For this back it is best to draft a i)aper pattern, 

and cut the back apart on the line L C E. The 

skirt of the side body will require a piece to be 

rig, 16. added the size of E C K to give its proper wndth. 

Tiay these pieces on the lining and allow a -h inch for seam where they 

were cut apart. 




BACKS OF VARIOUS KINDS. 



21 



The line where the paper was cut is; the sewing line. In dividino; the 
back at the waist line, the two pieces may be equal, but the side body 
must never be narrower than the back. 



HOW TO MAKE A BACK WITH SIX PIECES WITH SEAMS TO THE 

SHOULDER. 

Draft the back and side body togetlier as for a sacque back, as shown 
in Fig. 15. Divide the waist line into three equal parts, and also divide the 
distance from the sewing line of armhitic at the shoulder to the sewing line 
at the center of the back at tlio neck, into three equal parts. Draw straight 
lines from the divisions at shoulder to the divisions at waist, and extend the 
skirt as shown in Fig. 16. It will be necessary to draft this on paper and 
allow one-half inch for seams where tlie pattern is cut in two. 



HOW TO MAKE A BACK IN SIX PIECES WITH ONE STRAIGHT LINE 
TO THE SHOULDER AND A CURVE TO THE ARMHOLE. 

First draft the back and side body together, as shown in Fig. 15. Di- 
vide the back at the waist line into three equal parts, and at the shoulder 
into two equal parts from the seam at arrahole to the seam at center of the 
back at the neck. Draw a line from dot at shoulder to dot at waist line 
nearest the center of the back. Extend the skirt below the waist, as shown 
in Fig. 16. Next, with the circle of the side body, mark a line from that 
point in the armhole where the seam generally goes one-third of the dis- 
tance from the top of the side seam to the shoulder, as represented by dot 
jTinFig. 16, to the left hand dot at the waist line. Extend the skirt as 
shown in Fig. 16. 

This gives a back with a curve to the armhole and a straight line to the 
shoulder, and is called a combination back. It can 
be used to advantage for fleshy forms. 

HOW TO MAKE A FRENCH BACK FOR A 
FRENCH BASQUE. 

This is one where part of the side body is added 
to the back, and a part to the underarm piece, thus 
doing away with the regular side seam. 

Draft the back and side body, as shown in Fig. 
15, so that the sewing lines of the circles of the 
back and side body will come together at the 
armhole and waist i)roperly. This gives us the back 
and side body together, which makes a back wider 
than is required. To bring it to the proper width 
we decide, the width we desire, the back to be at the 
waist when finished, and })lace a dot on the waistline 
at that distance from the center seam of the back, 
as at C, in Fig. 17, The piece of the back, to the 
left of dot, from C to A i'v generally about one 
inch Avide. Just as much as you take from the back 
at the waist line from C to A, take off from the 
armhole fiom J£ to I). TheiiAvilh the circle of the 
side body draw the line JD C By placing the 




rig. 17. 



28 



THE MCDOM'ELL GARMENT DRAFTING MACHINE. 



waist line of the side body at the waist line A. S, and the edge of the 
circle at 7>, a good curve is formed. If you want more curve drop the 
waist line of the side body below the line A. 2?, and for a less curve 
raise it above. 

Extend the skirt below the waist by placing the back of the machine 
as you have it when you drafted the back. Move the machine to the 
left straight with the waist line until the left edge of the skirt at the 
waist comes to C on the waist line. Mark the left side of the skirt of the 
back from C down to F. This skirt requires a one-half inch more spring 
than a plain basque at ZZ, Fig. 17, six inches below the waist. Now 
the line A F is the regular sewing line of the side body, or, in this case, 
of the sack back, and C D is the sewing line for the French back. The 
piece between the lines A E and C JJ is a part of the waist, but is not 
used in this back, and must be preserved, as it Avill be needed to complete 
the waist. So you can cut this piece out and add it to the side seam of 
the front as you will be directed in the instructions that follow for the 
French front. 

THE FRENCH FRONT. 

For this front we set the machine the same as for the regular three 
dart front as instructed on page lY or diagram, using the curved front. 
Move the first dart over to the left, at top and bottom, thus shutting it out. 
Bring the lower I'ight hand piece of the second dart three sizes to the left, 
place the top at or near 8^ so as to give the dart a good shape, standing 
about straight, the top slanting slightly to the right. See Fig. 18. Mark 
the fold line, neck, shoulder, armhole, and the left and front side of the hip 
dart, also the waist line. Then move the machine one inch to the right, 
keeping the waist line straight. Then mark the right side of the hip dart 

'N O, balance of the armhole 
N S, and the side seam S T. 
This finishes the marking of 
the front and makes it com- 
plete to the waist line, except 
that portion of the sacque 
back that teas not used in 
making the French hack, 
just described. This piece 
of the side body or sacque 
back that was not used in 
making the French back 
needs to be added to the 
])attern to complete the 
underarm piece and give the 
goods required to join the 
back. It is shown by S 1\ 
V U, Fig. 18. If in making 
the pattern for the French 
P p ■ back you cut the piece off 

that was not required it is 
* ■*•§'• *-^' just the size and shape that 

you need to add to the underarm piece, and by placing its left hand edge 




K L 



FREKCH FRONT. 29 



at the sewing line of the side seam, then marking along its right hand 
edge, will give the sewing line. Allow 1 inch for seam beyond this. 

The line S T, Fig. 18, shows the sewing line of the side seam, and 
from there to the right the piece /S T, U F is what is added from the 
back. Generally this piece is one inch y^'ide, and its curve is the same as that 
of the side seam — and as the cutting line of the side seam of the front is one 
inch deep and has the same curve, we can make the cutting line the sewing 
line, which adds the piece required, and then add one inch for seam. This 
will give us about the same result as would be obtained by cutting the 
piece from the back and adding it as above directed, and gives less trouble. 
Remember, when you add one inch to the front as here directed, you must 
always take a piece of the sani^e roidth off the sacque hack to make the 
French back. Remember to continue the armhole curve on the piece you 
have added, as shown from S to JJ, Fig. 18. 

The skirt is added, as follows : The front line is extended straight down 
for most persons, as shown from J5 to (7, but those with large stomachs, or 
above the medium, will require a spring, as shown by line jB JE*. The front 
and hip darts are extended below the waist the same as in any other basque 
(see Fig. 18). The hi}) measure, however, is applied differently. That is, 
you need not refer to the table given for skirts of basques, but take the hip 
measure and apply it as follows : 

Take \ the hip measure, because the pattern is for one side only ; thus, if 
the hip measure is 40 use 20, and first measure the skirt of the back 6 inches 
below the waist, from sewing line to sewing line Z Z, Fig. 17. Then 
measure across the front 6 inches below the waist, from X to Y, beginning 
at the fold line at X, leaving out the darts, and extend the measure to Y, 
to complete the 20 inches, including the back. Thus, if the back is meas- 
ured 4-^ inches, you will require 15^ inches across the front from X to Y, 
Fig. 18, or from fold line to sewing line of the side seam, exclusive of the 
Aarts. This will give you 20 inches in the back and front when finished. 

HOW TO MAKE A PLAITED, GATHERED OR SHIRRED WAIST. 

Draft the lining as for the regular basque, as instructed on page 15, or 
on the diagram. 

Then plait, gather or shirr the outside before cutting and sewing in with ' 
or on the lining. 

TO MAKE A LOW NECK. 

Arrange the machine and draft as for the regular basque. Cut out such 

parts about the neck, front and back as you wish removed, liemember, 

that there is no difference in drafting a low neck from the drafting the 

plain basque. The only difference consists in cutting out around the neck. 

TO MAKE A YOKE. 

Draft a plain basque. Then cut out as much as desired around the neck, 
and cut off front, side body and back at a line about tioo inches below the 
armhole, or shorter, if desired. 



30 



THE MCDOWELL GARMENT DRAFTING MACHINE. 



THE PRINCESS, POLONAISE, WATER-PROOFS, 
ULSTERS, ETC. 

THE PRINCESS. 

Arrange the machine as for a phiin basque, as directed on page 15, or in 
tlie measure hook or chart, and add curved front for all forms except those 
with very small bust. Set the front darts two sizes less for a Princess than 
for a basque for the same party ; thus, if the front darts are marked 12 in 
the measure book, set at 10 for a Princess. Divide the dai'ts so that the 
second is a little larger than the first. Move the top of the side seam to 
the left so that the top slants about 1 inch tOAvards the front. Change the 
top of the hip dart piece so that its figure will correspond with the top of 
the side seauL When the machine is all set mark the cutting and sewing 
lines for the front. 

TO ADD THE SKIRT. 

Extend the fold line straight down from H 
at the waist to H at the bottom, for length 
of skirt, as shown on figure 19. Add for 
hem when the bottom is not to be faced. 
Extend the first dart D straight down be- 
low the waist line 7 inches, and have the 
dart come to a point there at M. From J? 
have the lines extend together further down 
^ inch. This will get rid of the fullness at 
the bottom of the dart. 

Make the second dart HI in the same 
manner. 

The hip dart j^^ is drafted the same as for 
the basque, except that it comes to a point 
at 6r, V inches below the waist line. Ex- 
tend the lines together ^ inch further to 
get clear of fullness. 

The dotted lines below the hip dart are 
not often used, only when the goods are 
very narrow, and then as desci'ibed here- 
after. 

Six inches below the waist line, on the 
Fig-. 19. £q|^j j-j^^^ ,1^1 ^^ jj^ Yiom tliis point 

measure across to V, on the sewing line of the side seam 6 inches be- 
low the waist line, the number of inches as given in the skirt table for basque, 
on page 20 or in the measure book, opposite the hip measure. Thus, if 
the hip measure is 41, the table gives you for width of front at this point 
14| inches. This is the width required vvdien finished. Therefore in mak- 
ing this measure, the darts must not be measured, as they are not included. 

The side seam below the waist for line C V, is drafted as usual. Al- 
ways have it spring slightly to the right below the waist, and if the measure 
taken from the table does not make it curve to the right, add enough to 
cause it to do so. 

Next decide how wide the bottom of the skirt is to be at the floor line. 
Is it to be more or less than three yards? For a lady that measures 41 
inches around the hips, 2^ yards at the floor would Ije medium. If, then, 
we wish the garment to be 2-| yards at the floor line, we refer to the table 




HOW TO MAKE THE BACK OF A PRINCESS. 



31 



for Princess skirts on page 32, also found in tlie measure book; find 2^ yards 
in tlie first column. Opposite, in the second colamn, you will find 27 inches, 
which is the width of the front at the floor, which gives the distance from 
_ffto K, Fig. 19. Measure the length of the side seam from C, at the 
waist, on down to K, the length of the skirt at the side. 

At K, add 1.J inches to X, as the train draws the skirt up at this point, 
and without this allowance makes it short at this place. Have this line, C 
L, curved in (about 8 inches above the floor line) at TF, about 2 inches 
from a straight line from L to V. This will cause the train to carry bet- 
ter. This completes the regular Princess front. 

The dotted lines from the hip dart down are used only when the goods 
are very narrow. When the goods are narrow, then, make a seam down 
from the hip dart. The front line of the hip dart of the toaist, springs 
back regularly to G. From this on to the bottom at J it springs back or 
to the I'ight one inch for each twelve inches down. If, then, from Cr to »/ 
is 36 inches, ,7 is 3 inches further from the fold line than G. In other 
words, this line keeps running back slightly from the waist to the floor. 
The back line of the hip dart is drafted regularly to G, 
but from this point, where it meets and crosses the front 
line, it is carried straight down parallel with the fold 
line in front, or with the grain of the cloth, to the bottom 
of the skirt at J. When the Lip dart is continued down 
with the seam the front at the bottom extends from H 
B K to eJ, and tlie underarm piece from I to L. 



D 



] HOW TO MAKE THE BACK OF A PRINCESS. 

! Having arranged the machine for the regular back and 
] marked as usual, we have the back made to 6 inches be- 
I low the waist line. To extend the skirt continue the 
I center line of the back B D, Fig. 20, to the floor at F, 
\ and continue it on to H until it gives you the length of 
] train desired. For the width of this piece at the floor 
' consult the column for width of back, opposite the width 
I of skirt you are making (in this case 2-|^ yards) in the 
I table for the Princess skirt on page 32, or in the measure 
' book. There you find 9 inches given as the width of 
I this piece at this point, the distance from F to F, at 
I which point make a dot. 

I Next place the end of the tape at the waist line at A, and 

I at 6 inches down, place it out to the regular spring at the 

I back at C, then continue the line down to F, and extend 

j beyond F, the length desired for train to G. This line 

I curves slightly over the hip just below C The length 

I of trani varies from 2 inches to 2 yards, beyond the floor 

line of the skirt. The train is shaped after the side body 

is drafted, and the train part placed as it should go 

together. Then the edge of ,/ X, Fig. 20, and V Y, 

Fig. 21, can be trimmed to suit the stylo desired. 

When you desire the train to be extra full you can throw extra fullness 

in the center seam from F to H. 'J'his is seldom necessary. When jilaits 

or fullness is desired below the waist you can add as shown by the dotted 

lines I J and K L, Fig. 20. 



Fig". 20. 



32 



THE MCDOWELL GARMENT DRAFTING MACHINE. 



THE SIDE BODY. 

Having drafted tlie regular side body as usual it will 
be complete to 6 inches below the waist line. Extend 
line iV O, Fig. 2 1 , straight on to W, at the Hoor. 
From TV, extend on 12 inches with dotted line to S. 
To get the width of the side body skirt at the Hoor 
line, consult the Princess table for skirts below 
or in the measure book. There you will find the dis- 
tance from TV to V, at which point make a dot. 

Place the end of the tape at 31 on the waist line. 
Spring it out as required to P, six inches below the 
waist, and draw a line from P to V, the length of 
the skirt on the side, and added 1^ inches wlien there 
is to be a train. This makes it the same length as 
the front on the side. 

To get the train for the side body we follow out 
the dotted line from TF, 12 inches to S, and then 4 
inches to the right of S we make a dot. The skirt 
of the side body which joins the back begins to curve 
to the right just above TF, and passes through the 
dot to the right of S, which we have just made. The 
wedge-shaped piece S W U is to give the spring 
and allow the train to lay properly on the floor. It 
is generally added to the side body as we have 
described, but can be added to tbe skirt of the back 
at this point, when the goods are sufficiently wide to 

permit it to be done without piecing, and it would be necessary to piece the 

side body. 

The dotted line M TV shows how to add fullness or plaits for a short 

skirt, and dotted lines T U for a train skirt. 

Fashion controls the shape and length of the train, they are all drafted 

on the above plan, and, from the instructions, you should have no difficulty 

in following all changes of fashion. 

Skirt Table, at the Floor for Princess, Waterproof and Ulster. 




Fig. 21. 



WHOLE WIDTH AT 


WIDTH OF FRONT 


WIDTH OF SIDE BODY 


WIDTH OF BACK AT 


THE FLOOR. 


AT THE FLOOR. 


AT THE FLOOR. 


THE FLOOR. 


li Yards 


15 Inches 


7 Inches 


5 Inches 


1# " 


18 " 


8 " 


6 " 


2 " 


21 " 


9 " - 


7 " 


H - 

H " 


24 " 


10 " 


8 " ... .. 


27 " 


11 " 


9 " 


2f " - 


30 " •- 


12 " 


10 " 


3 " 


33 " 


13 " 


11 " 


H " - 

H " -- 


36 " 


14 " 


12 *' 


39 " 


15 " 


13 " 


3f " 


32 " 


16 " 


14 " 


4 " 


45 " 


17 " 


15 " 


4i " 


48 " 


18 " 


16 " 


4i^" - 


51 " 


19 " 


17 " 


4f*" - 


54 " - 


20 " 


18 " 


6 " 


57 " 


21 " 


19 " 



POLONAISE. 



33 




POLONAISE. 

THE FRONT 

or the polonaise is made the same as the front 
of the Princess, just described, except that it 
is generally 2 inches shorter and does not curve 
in above F, Fig, 19, as would be required for 
a train. It is generally draped or fuller along 
the side at G G, as shown in Fig. 22. This 
front can be changed and draped to coincide 
with the changes of fashion. 

THE BACK AND SIDE BODY 

Can be drafted separately as 
for the Princess, or can be 
placed about six inches apart 
on the same waist line as 
shown by S and J, Fig. 23. 
The circle lines of the back 
and those of the side body are 
continued below the waist line, 
\f regularly for 6 inches, and 
then straight on, until they q 
Fig". 22. (^.ome together at J. This 

makes the skirt of the side body and back in one piece; 
the center line down the back is continued in a straight q 
line from the waist to within two inches of the floor. The 
side seam over the hip has been carried down six inches 
below the w^aist by the machine. As you continue, for q 
the next 3 inches gradually curve in to a straight line and 
continue to the bottom of the skirt with the grain of the 
goods. If plaits or fullness is desired below the waist 
they can be added in the center of the back from 3f to 
]V, and between the side body and the back by increas- 
ing the space between them as desired at i. ' *s • ^*^» 

The point below the waist at which the fullness is to be added varies 
from one-half to 6 inches, according to the fashion. Different drapings will 
give you as many varieties of styles as you may desire, and this same style 
of skirt, with back and side body together, is used without draping for 
various kinds of garments. 

Princess, Polonaise, Ulsters, Waterproofs, Dusters, &c., &c., are all made 
on the same general plan, and the same tables and rules apply to them. 

PLAIN OR GORED SKIRT. 

Is made Avith a full breadth of goods in front, one or two pieces on the side, 
and a full breadth or more in the back. The front and side pieces are gored 
or tapered at the top. In making this skirt the width of the goods and the 
size of the figure ought to be taken hito account, and from them the num- 
ber of the pieces and the size of each determined. 

A medium sized skirt would be 24 inches at the waist, 41 at the hips, 
and 2 yards and 4 inches at the floor. For half the skirt, at the floor, we 




34 



THE MCDOWEJ.L GARMENT DKAFTING MACHINE. 



would have 38 inches. When the goods are 22 inches wide, the front piece, 
which is folded, will be 11 inches wide at the bottom, as shown in No. 1, 
Fig. 24, The length ^ ^ is the length of skirt desired, say 38 inches. 
The top, from ^ to ^ you would make Q^ inches wide — about one-fourth 
the waist size. Draw a straight line from ^ to C at the bottom of the 
skirt. At the top of this line yoix take out a small gore, 1 inch wide, at top, 
D to X, running out 7 inches below. We also take out a small gore at jfc', 
l^ inches wide at the top and 7 inches deep. This leaves this piece 4 inches 
at the top when finished. 




Fig". 24. 

Next make the second piece, No. 2, Fig. 23. Make the first line straight- 
from l^to fT, the length of the skirt. Before deciding the width of the 
bottom of this piece we add the width of the front piece and the width of 
the back at the floor together, and as they are both folded it will always be 
equal to one breadth of the goods, which in this case is 22 inclies, which, 
taken from 38, the half of the skirt at bottom, leaves 16 as the correct width 
for the bottom of this piece. Place a dot at If 16 inches from J, on a line 
at right angles with the front line Y J. At the top, the width from Y to 
Z^ make a little over one-third the waist size, say 10 inches, and draw line Z 31 
Take off a small gore from Hto I on the front line, 1 inch wide at the top, 
down to JZ, 7 inches. Also take off a gore from L to N I inch wide at top, 
down 7 inches to W. Also, take out a gore from the center, 2 inches wide 
at top, down 7 inches deep, to K. This will leave this piece about 4 inches 
wide at the top, when finished. 

The back piece is generally a straight piece of full-width goods, and is 
generally gathered on the band to suit. The back piece can be made gored, 
the same as the front, but this is not often done. If, for any reason, you 
should use this gored piece* on the back, you will need to run a piece of 
tape over the seams on the inside, where it joins the side piece, as other- 
wise both pieces being on the bias, they would sag at the seam. JRernemher 
that lohenever two bias edges are united hi a seatn, you can prevent stretch- 
incf hy coveriny with a tape. 

When the goods used are 24 inches wide, in place of 22, the front and 
back pieces will each be one inch wider at the floor, and the side piece can 
be made narrower in proportion, as shown by the dotted lines. 



OUTSIDE GARMENTS, ETC. 



35 



OUTSIDE GARMENTS. 

CO^A^TS, S.A.OGiTJES, ETC. 
THE MEASURE. 

If tlie party has on a garment, sncli as you wish to make, take the measure 
over it, just as you woukl for a basque, marking the same full outside measure 
in your measure-book. Set the machine, and draft according to the measures 
taken. It is, however, so seldom that the party you wish to measure has on 
such a garment as you desire to make, that it is always better to depend 
upon the plain basque measure, and then enlarge it for an outside garment. 
That is, set the machine to the basque measure, and enlarge as follows : 

Increase the neck and arm-hole each one size on both bach and front. 
Increase the vndth of back half size. Widen the bach at the vmist two 
fashion sizes, and the skirt of the back t/ie same. Increase the width of the 
front one size, and widen the front at the toaht two sizes. Shorten the 
side seam ^ inch on the back and front. Change the side body to suit 
the back and front, that is, make the circles correspond with the circles of 
the back in length, and the side seam with the side seam of the front after 
they are changed. 

HOW TO DRAFT A DOUBLE-BREASTED HALF OR 
THREE-QUARTER TIGHT COAT. 

THE HALF-TIGHT FRONT. 

Having arranged the machine according to the measures, and made the 

changes just described re- 
quired for an outside garment, 
place the front of the machine 
3 inches back from the edge 
of the goods, so as to give 
the goods required for double 
breast. Have the waist line 
the distance from the bottom 
of the goods or the paper 
the length of skirt required, 
about 16 inches ; with the 
machine in this position, 
mark the neck, shoulder, arm- 
hole, side seam, waist line, 
and hi]) dart 7>, Fig. 25, bxit 
not the front darts. Dot 
down the front in the center 
line from the neck to the 
waist, and extend the line on 
to the bottom of the skirt, as 
shown \)^ A B C Fig. 25, 
The center line is the narrow 
slot running from the neck 
to the waist line in which the 
sci-ews and rivets slide. It is 
\ inch to the right of the fold 
lines. 




Fig. 25. 



36 THE MCDOWELL GARMENT DRAFTING MACHINE. 

At A, at the neck at the top of the dotted line, a small gore is sometimes 
taken ont, about ^ inch wide at the top, running down 4 inches, this is to 
make the lap keep back in its place and lit properly at the neck. Mark 
from A. at the neck out to JT. This line generally goes straight out ; 
fashion, however, controls this as well as the collar. 

The skirt of this coat is made the same as the regular basque skirt, except 
that we measure from the centre line A CG inches below J5, f rom X, across 
to Y, as shown in Fig. 25. When the garment is half tight there will be 
no darts in front, and the above gives us a half tight garment. See back 
next page. 

TO MAKE A THREE-QUARTER TIGHT. 

Make the same as above for a half tight, except that you add one front 
dart as follows : Place the machine as before when you marked the front, 
then move the machine to the left until the second dart is midway between 
the center line and the hip dart. Thus mark the dart iEJ J'^ 6r, as shown in 
Fig. 25. See back for this front on next page. 

TO MAKE A HALF TIGHT FRONT WITHOUT ANY DARTS. 

Simply arrange the machine as l)efore except the hip dart, which must be 
shut out at top and bottom, and not marked. The side seam at the toj> 
must be moved to the left as far as it will go, that is to O on its scale, and 
the bottom must be set at the w^aist size, plus the 2 sizes extra allowed for 
an outside garment. Draft the same as before, except the darts. See the 
back for this front on next page. 

TO MAKE A TIGHT-FITTING FRONT. 

Arrange the machine as for the regular basque ; increase the neck one 
size front and back, increase the width of back \ size for thin, and 1 size 
for heavy material, increase the width of front 1 size, increase the armhole 
1 size for thin, and 2 sizes for heavy material, both front and back, widen 
the waist and skirt of the back, each 2 fasbion sizes, add 2 sizes to the Avaist 
in front, shorten the side seam or underarm length of the back, side body 
and front, each \ inch ; change the circle of the side l)ody, so that they will 
correspond with the cir(*les of the back. 

If you want a double-breasted garment place tlie machine on the goods 
3 inches from the edge, and if you want a single-breasted garment j)lace the 
edge of the machine at the edge of the goods. Have the waist line the dis- 
tance from the bottom of the goods that you desire the length of the skirt. 
Mark the center line for double-breasted, or the fold line for single-breasted, 
neck, shoulder, armhole, side seam, waist line, hip dart, and the two front 
darts. Add the skirt the same as for a basque. See back for this front on 
next page. 



TO MAKE A FRENCH JACKET. 



37 



THE BACK AND SIDE BODY FOR PALETOT OR OUTSIDE GARMENTS. 

Set the back as for the reojnlar basque to the measure taken and make 

the necessary changes for an outside garment as directed, page 35. Draft 

as befoi'e, except the sewing Hue in the center of 

L the back. This generally extends straight from 

the waist up to the neck, as sliown in Fig. 26. 

SIDE BODY. 

Set the machine according to the measure taken 
and make the side seam and 
circles each ^r inch shorter as re- 
quired for outside garments. 
Draft as before and straighten 
up the side seani below the waist 
(see Fig. 27), as this garment 
is a loose one it does not re- 
quire so great a curve just below 
the waist. Continue the skirt 
down to the length desired. 
This back and side body can be 
used with either of the fronts, 
above described on pages 35 & 36. 

SACOUE BACK OR BACK AND 
SIDE BODY TOGETHER. 

Set the back as for the reg- 
ular basque and then increase 
the neck and armhole each 1 size. 
Fig". 26. Increase thi width of back | 

size. Increase the width at 
waist and skirt 2 fashion sizes. Shorten the lower part of the length of 
back or underarm length ^ inch, and the side seam and circles of the side 
body each ^ inch. Mark the back all' except the circles. Dot the sewing 
line of the circles near the armhole and near the waist. Place the side body 
so that the lines at the armhole and waist are right, and have the sewing 
line of the circles of the side body are over the dots made at the circle of the 
back near armhole and waist, Mark the arndiole and side seam to the waist 
and continue to the bottom of the skirt. Mark the waist line. This back 
is not often used but can be used with either of the fronts above given. It 
is the same as Fig. 15, on page 26, except it is changed to an outside gar- 
ment. 

TO MAKE A FRENCH JACKET. 
Take a piece off the Sacque Back about 1 incli wide just inside of the side, 
seam, as described in Fig. 17, for a basque on page 27, and add it to the 
front, as described and sliown in Fig. 18, on page 28. The machine must 
be changed of course for an outside garment. 

A TIGHT FITTING COAT WITH CROSS SKIRT. 

Arrange the machine according to the measure as for the regular basque, 
and then enlarge it as follows : 





Fig-. 27. 



38 



THE MCDOWELL GARMENT DRAFTING MACHINE. 




THE BACK. 

Increase the neck one size, width of back one-half size for thin, or one size 
for thick goods. The arm hole one size for thin or two for thick goods. 
Widen the waist two fashion sizes and the skirt the same. 

Mark the back as usual all except the seam line down tlie 
centre of the back ; this is straighter in coats than basques. 
Have the line nearly straight from the waist line to the neck, 
unless the back is very round, in this case you must use the 
curve to lit. The lap in centre seam of the back is shown 
by dotted line in Fig 28, extend the skirt down the required 
length say 10 inches. 

THE SIDE BODY. 

Sim})ly shorten the circles to correspond with the back as 
changed, and shorten the side seam one lialf inch. Mark 
out side and inside as before, and then cut the skirt off below 
the waist line the required length, 2^ or 3 inches, as shown in 
Fig 20 by M N O P. 

THE FRONT. 

Enlarge the fi-ont as follows : Increase the neck one size, 
lengthen the shoulder -o inch to correspond with the shoulder 

of the back, increase the armhole one size for thin, or two for thick goods, 

shorten the side seam one-half inch ; increase the waist one size ; leave the 

darts as before ; shorten the lower part of the front length one half inch. 

Place the outer edge to the edge of the cloth for single-breasted or three 

inches Tsack for double-breasted. 

Mark the same as usual ; if 
double breasted mark the cen- 
tre line A F, Fig. 29, to the 
right of the fold line one half 
inch. The front is either 
straight or curved, as fashion 
requires. The skirt is added 
six or eight inches long as 
before and is then cut off be- 
low the waist line to suit the 
fashion from 2 to 4 inches. In 
this case we will say 3 inches, 
as shown by G- I. The side 
body is cut off the same 
length. The line is curved or 
straight according to fashion ; 
generally it is straight from the 
front back to the front darts, 
then curves up ^ inch at the 
Fig. 29. hip dart and down again at the 

side seam ; this downward slant is continued across the Side Body Skirt as 

shown by O K, Fig. 29. 




THE COLLAR. 



39 



THE CROSS SKIRT FOR FRONT AND SIDE BODY. 

Measure across the skirt of the front and side body where you cut it off 
3 inches below the waist line from Q to W; don't include the seams and 
darts. This will give you the width of the front and side body when made 
up. Add two inches to this for lap and it will give the required length of 
the cross skirt at the top, where it joins the front and side body. Now, if 
the length of the back skirt is 10 inches long the front will want to be the 
same. We have below the waist line '■^ inches, count h in. for seam and we 
have 2| finished. The cross skirt then will need to finish 7^ inches ; to do 
this it will need -^ inch at top for seam and one or more inches at the bottom, 
say 9 inches deep. To draft the arof^s skirt : place R back from the edge of 
goods 2 inches. Measure straight across to the right to S, the length as 
just obtained. Curve this line down in the Centre one inch at Z, this will 
give a line to suit the bottom of front, as shown in Fig. 29, but fashion uses 
curve as well as straight lines across at the top of the cross skirt, that 
is, adds to the regular skirt at one point, and takes off the cross skirt 
just as much ; so fashion must be your guide here. 

The grain of the cloth is shown by X the arrow. The depth of the skirt is 
shown by jB T, also the spring of the front, when you wish the cloth to 
meet in front. The lines H, K represent cut-away fronts, 1^ where to add 
the pocket, and S JJ the spring where it joins the back. For skirts not over 
10 inches long we add half the depth of skirt to get the spring, thus, if it is 8 
inches from ;Si to FF it will be 4 from W to TJ. This gives plenty of slant ; 
any extra goods at ?7 can simply be turned under. 

This same plan is used for basque with cross skirts. 



THE COLLAR. 

The Standing Collar is slightly curved. Take the back of the machine 
and mark a line with the circle the length desired ; then move the back from 
the line just made two and a half inches, and mark another line same as be- 
fore. Cut off one inch longer than half the neck size, shape the left end for 
the front and the right cut square off for the seam, as shown by ^,Fig. 30. 

The Plain Rolling Collar for Single 
Breast— see B, Fig. 30. It is cut just one 
inch longer than half the neck size, and one inch 
wider than it is to be when finished, say three 
inches. The top is straight, the loAver edge 
slightly curved. The dotted line shows the fold 
line. 

The Wide Rolling Collar is made the same 
as B, shown by O, Fig. 30. Can be used for 
double-breasted garments. 

The Collar and Lai-el Together, is shown 
by jD, Fig. 30. It is faced on to the front, which 
is cut away from the side of the neck to a i)oint 
five or more inches below the neck on the front 
line. This will give you the principal styles 
only. 




Fig. 30. 



40 



THE MCDOWELL GARMENT DKAFTING MACHINE. 



THE SLEEVE. 

One of the most important parts of the dress is the sleeves. When they 
tit l)adly they are botli iineomfortable and unsightly. 

To become a good dressmaker you must thoroughly master this part of 
your trade. Many a good dressmaker has almost ruined her trade by trying 
to make one jjattern do for all her customers. It would be too short on the 
shoulder for this one, wrinkle across the full part of the arm for that one, 
draw across the back for another, bind the ai-m of the next down, and get 
the elbow in the wrong place, and so on. 

To make a sleeve to Jit, it Is necessary to have the len<jt/i to the elhoio 
and the wrist, and to have the size at ihe top and bottom. And if the sleeve 
is to he tight-fitting it is also necessary to have the size of the arm between 
the shoidder and, tlie elbow, and at the latter point %oith the arvn bent. To 
get the size at the wrist, make a fist and measure around over the knuckles. 

There is a place in the measure book for each of these measures, and you 
will do well to take them carefully and draft accordingly. 

A plain loose sleeve can be drafted from the length, and size top and bot- 
tom. When you use only these three measures you locate the elbow point 
two inches nearer the wrist than the shoulder — that is, make the upper part 
of the sleeve two inches longer than the lower part. 

The present style requires the sleeve to join the shoulder just at the point. 
When the armhole is cut higher up on the shoulder, then the top or curve 
of the sleeve must be extended just as much as the armhole is above the 
point of the shoulder, and if long shoulders come in style again, take off the 
top of the sleeve what you add to length of shoulder on the garment. 



This Sleeve Tabl 


e gives THREE inches difference at 
the armhole. 


With ONE inch difference 
at the Wrist. 


Size of 
Armhole. 


Frout 
Curve. 


Back 
Curve. 


High 
Point. 


Width of 
Under. 


Width of 
Upper. 


Size at 

Wrist, 

Finished. 


Width of 
Under 
Piece. 


Width of 
Upper 
Piece. 


-..10.. 


--.2f,. 


...1... .--4i.. 


...4... 


...7.., 


6.. 


. - . 3 . . . 


...4... 


.--11.. 


-.3-.. 


---l...^--4|.. 


_--4.l.. 


---VI.. i 


v.. 


---3i.. 


---41-- 


...12.. 


..-3i.. 


...li.....5... 


---5-.. 


....s... 


8.. 


-.-4... 


...5... 


...13.. 
...14.. 
...15.. 


---3.i-- 
---3f.. 
...4... 


.-.li..L..5i.. 
...li.. ...5*.. 
...U.. ...5|.. 


---5i-- 


-..84-- 
...9... 

---9^-1 


9.- 

---10.. 
.-.11.. 


...4i-- 
...5... 

...5^.. 


...0. . 


...16.. 


...4|.. 


...li 0... 


--.v.... 


..10...} 


---12.- 


...6... 


...V... 


.... IV.. 

...18.. 


...4^.. 

---5.... 
---51.. 


...If 61.. 

...1| 01.. 




-.10^..l 

.-11... 


...13.. 


...6*.. 


...v.k. 


...19 


2 6f 84 


IIA 








...20.. 


...2 V. .. 


...9... 


..12-.-, 








.--21 


...5i.- 


2^ VI 


91 


12^ 
















i 









In using the above table, find the armhole you are using in the left 
column, and opposite this, on the same line, the other parts you need to 
complete the sleeve. 

Remember to get from the measure book the 
Length of sleeve. 

" to the elbow. 
Size at armhole. 
" hand. 



TO DRAFT THE SLEEVE. 



41 



TO DRAFT THE SLEEVE. 

Draw line 1 tlie length that the sleeve is to be from A to B, Get this 
from yonr measure book. Also the distance to the elbow, and measure from A 
to C In case you have not got the measure to the elbow point, make the 
upper part one inch more than half the length of sleeve ; thus, if sleeve 
length is 20, make the upper part from A to C 11. Then get the front 
curve of the armhole as found in the table opposite the arm size you are 




Fig. 31. 

using and measure from A to 7) the distance. Then get the back curve 
from the table opposite the armhole size and measure from A to _E the 
distance. 

Draw line 2 at a right angle with line 1 from A to F, the highest point 
of the armhole, as found in the table opposite the armhole size. 

Drmo line 3 at a right angle with line 1 from E to G, the width of the 
under piece at the shoulder, as found in the table opposite the arm size. 
Continue this line 3 inches more to if, so that the distance from E to H 
is the width of the upper piece, as given in the table opposite the arm size. 

Drmo line 4 parallel to line 1 and at a right angle with line 3 from Jf to 
I the length to the elbow according to the measure book or the same length 
as 4 Con line 1. Then place a dot two inches beloAv Xat «7the elbow 
point for th-e under piece. 

Draw line 5 from G the width of the under piece at the armhole to J at 
the elbow. Then two inches above C, on line 1, dot at K, for the inside 
curve. 

Draw line 6 from D on line 1 to K. Then on line 1, three inches to the 
eft of B place dots L. Next place a dot 2 inches below L at M for the 
inside of the sleeve at the wrist. 

For coats use 1 inch from L to M ; this will f/ive less curve. 

Draio Ihie 1 from line 6 with the side body of the drafting machine. 
Have the narrow circle from you, place the curved point so it touches line 
6 two inches to the left of K. Bring the long straight part up so that the 
outer edge touches M ; mark along this edge. 

Draw line 8 at a right angle with line 1 from M to O the width of the 
upper piece at the wrist, as found in the table opposite wrist size. Dot at 
N one inch this side of D for the under piece. The width of these pieces 
is also found in the table. 

Drato line 9 from line 4 at the elbow of the upper piece to the wrist, with 
the circle of the side body by placing the curved point so it touches line 4, 



42 



THE MCDOWELL GARMENT DRAFTING MACHINE. 



from one to two inches to the left of I. Bring- the straight part, which 
joins the circle, to O. Mark along the edge from line 4 to O. 

Draw line 10 from line 5, the outside of the elbow of the under piece, to 
N. Mark with the circle of the side body as you marked line 9, by placing 
the point two inches to the left of J. Mark from line 5 to N. 

2\) get tlte curve of the under piece at the aruiliole use the side body. 

Place the point of the circle of the side body at G on line 3, and bring 
the outer edge of the straight part to D. Mark the inner edge of the circle 
and it will add one-half inch at G and D for seam. 

To get the curve at the top for tJie tipper piece. 

The curve for the upper piece at the arrahole is from H to F, and then 
dow.i to D ; have it broad at F and not sharp. The better plan is to mark 
a line al)out 3 inches at F one inch to the right and two to the left slightly 
carved, then extend this line down to H and down to D. 

To tnake the deeve tight-fitting, use the test lines 11 and 12 for the upper 
part, and 13 and 14 at the elbow. That is, measure the sleeve at these 
points, and if they exceed the measure from the measure-book more than 
two inches, take out the extra goods at R and Q for the upper part, and I 
and J at the elbow. Shape as shown by the dotted lines 4 and 5. 

Extra fullness on the top of the shoulder or apu^'is made by the curve 
of the upper piece beyond F, Fig. 31. 

Eor a very short shoulder the top of the sleeve must be extended at this 
point. Add to the curve as you shorten the shoulder. 

A straight or ciirved sleeve can be made by simply changing the distance 
from JML to L. When ,1/ is one inch from X the sleeve curves about right 
for a coat-sleeve, and when it is two incher. more suitable for a basque. 

To niahe a slight fullness at the elbow draft as instructed above. Measure 
the lines -f and .*> to get the length desired and cut off the extra goods at 
the wrist both upper and under even. The upper piece being some longer 
than the under, the extra length is fulled in at the elbow in a space of two 
inches. 

Wlien 710 fdlness is desired at the cMow, measure lines 4 and to get the 
length required, then measure lines 5 and 10 and make the under piece one- 
half inch shorter than the upper. 

This completes the plain sleeve. 

TO MAKE A NARROW UNDER AND A AVIDE UPPER. 

Draft the sleeve just described as shown in Fig. 31, according to the 
measures and the table as explained. Then take a piece off the under part 
of the sleeve, the width desired, and add it to the upper. This piece can 
be varied in width, but the following proportions are good. Three inches 
off the under piece back of the arm at the armhole, from G-to S one and 




>UU 



vV 



Tig. 32. 



CIRCULARS AND CAPES. 



43 



nnp half at the elbow at T and one inch at the wrist from JN^to U. This 
;Lceo.tther the same amount must ^^ -l^^-^l^. ^^t^TT^T^'nT t 
fows • 3 inches at the armhole to S S. at elbow U inches at T T, and out 

'^tmtt::;:i^/sm:;iUmon:^i^'iaken off the front part as well .. the back 
oomeimieh a oiiici T'lr Thi« niece can be one inch at tiu 

curves from V J' and ^S are joined and continue as shown m Fig. o2. 

TO MAKE A SLEEVK WITHOUT THE BACK SEAM FROM THE ELBOW TO THE 

SHOULDER. 

Dintt the sleeve as sliown in Fig. 31, page 41. Take »«.*« ""f'^'- 1™5 
J;te'':bee,.,e,,,ay.he,^,pe,^a„d™^^^ 

^^rrrii'eoMi^u^s^ruoolIirirthe J,. "Mark avound the outer 

sleeve goes to the highest part of the armhole. 



CIRCULARS AND CAPES. 



Set the maehme as J"" JV"" '"^^ "^^^H'^*-. ™^'«^ ^. ^.^e the 

"/ ' n '"^fNllivonrn 4i„e 1 n«th as tl,e shoulder of the baek. 
''p£ tl e edge of tt f oJ^^ 
of tt goods afd nine inches ftora the top, as shown by distance A O, 

Fig. 33. 




Fiff. 33. 



Fig. 34. 



44 THE MCDOWELL, GARMENT DRAFTING MACHINE. 

Next place the back so the seam lines of the shoulders of the front and 
back come together at the avnihole at 2>, Fig. 33. With this point as a 
pivot move the back, until the center line FK has the direction required. 
The angle here given to line F K gives you a medium amount of fullness 
in skirt. If it is moved to the dotted line I J, which is nearly a full bias, it 
will give less goods and make a close-fitting skirt. To make a close or 
loose hanging garment then simply change the position of the center line 
of the back. 

To get the length, measure the front or back which ever you have, then 
draw a line straight in from H or JT the distance J? is from the center line 
of the front or back. Next place the end of the tape at the center of the 
shoulder gore at jP and make a sweep from JVto i for lower edge. 

When you want the seam on top of the shoulder add one and a half inches 
(not size) to the armhole of the back, that is raise the shoulder at this point 
that amount. And take off of the armhole in the front the same amount 
added to the armhole of the back, as shown in Fig. 34. The shoulder lines 
come together then at X in place of D as in Fig. 33. The back and front 
are placed the same, and the skirt made the same. 

The side seams are used in place of the one doavn the center op 

THE BACK. 

When this is desired the pattern is made the same as Fig. 34, but the 
goods are folded on the center line of the back and the shoulder seam con- 
tinued over the shoulder straight down to the bottom. 

To HAVE TWO shoulder GORES, simply have a strip of goods one and 
one half inches wide in the center of the large gore from P to X as shown 
in Fig. 34. This gives you two small gores C X JP and PDF allow 
for seams. 

These illustrations will give you the general plan, a little practice will 
enable you to follow any fashion. 



THE DOLMAN 

Has a variety of styles and can be produced in several ways. The 
simplest and perhaps the best plan is to set the machine according to the 
regular basque measure, increase the neck one size and draft the front and 
back, then change these, as required to suit the different styles and add the 
sleeve to suit the fashion. To assist in making these changes it is well to 
have the following 

TEST MEASURE. 

1st Measure. — With the arm bent at right angle, and the hand resting 
upon the pit of the stomach with the arm in an easy position at the side 
measure from the center of the back, at the heighth of the elbow straight 
around over the arm to the little bone on the wrist ; add two inches for 
seams and comfort. 

2d Measure. — Measure from the center of the back from a point six 
inches below the neck straight around over the arm to the armhole seam in 
front. Add two inches for seams and comfort. 



THE DOLMAN. 



45 



Set the machine according to the regular measure. Increase the neck one 
size, and 




Fig. 35. 



DRAFT THE FRONT AS FOLLOWS : 

Place the edge of the machine oven with the edge of the goods and have 
the waist line above "the lower edge the required length of skirt. Then 
mark the fold line, neck, shoulder, armhole, side seam and waist line. Do 
not mark the darts, but dot the hip dart at the waist line. 

Extend the fold line down below the waist, as shown in Fig. 35 to the 
length desired. Extend the skirt from the side seam down according to the 
regular hip measure as found in the table in the measure book and as shown 
by line 2^ D, Fig. 35. 

It is not, however, necessary to draft this line, unless we cut a piece off 
the side body and add it to the front, which we seldom do. So we can 
proceed at once to get line F G. 

Take half the full hip measure, and apply it across the skirt six inches 
below the waist line, from Z on the fold line to Z on line F G. Add one 
inch to complete the length ; that is, use ^ the hip measure plus 0)ie inch. 
Thus, if the hip measure is 42, the ^ is 21, to which adding 1 inch, we have 
22 inches, the length required from Z to Z. 

Have the line F G spring to the right at the rate of tiro inches for each 
six inches it is continued below Z ; thus if Cr is 12 inches below Z, then the 
line B G will extend 4 inches further to the right than the line Z Z. 

The width of the skirt of the front as here given is based on the usual 
width of the skirt of the back, which is 4 inches wide at 6 inches below the 
waist line from Z to Z, Fig. 36. Just as much as the width of the back at 
this point exceeds 4 inches, you will deduct that amount from the width of 
the skirt in front on line Z Z, making it that much narrower. 



46 



THE MCDOWELL GARMENT DRAFTING MACHINE. 



To finish the front we cut away that part or portion of the front not 
required for the Dolman. Begin at the shoulder at C, Fig, 35, at ^ inch 
inside the armhole and continue that distance inside the armhole on down 
to H, which is a little above the loAver part of the armhole. From H, 
spring back to the right and cross the waist line near the dot at the right 
side of the hip dart and extend it to jP 2 inches above Z. When a lower 
cut is desired, strike J^" below Z by crossing the waist line near the left dot 
of the hip dart in place of the right as shown in Fig. 35. 

THE BACK. 

Place the back on the goods so there will be room to add the sleeve at 
the left. Then mark all the back except the armhole and circles. Then 
dot these on the sewing lines as shown in P^ig. 36. Next dot at K on the 
shoulder | inch in from the armhole and at I*, l4 inches inside of i, the 
sewing line of the armhole, and at N, the point where the curved line 
crosses the circle about f of the distance on the circle from the waist up, 
also at O, at the waist, which is 2 inches to the left of M, the width of the 
back at the waist line. 

Draw the curved line from Ji, through _P and N to O. See that 
this line has a graceful curve. Extend the skirt on down, the length 
desired, keeping 1^ inches to the left of the regular basque skirt, 6 inches 
below the waist line at Z, and on to O O. This line curves slightly 
from the waist to the bottom. Finish the back by drawing a line across 
the bottom of the skirt as shown in Fig. 36. 

THE SLEEVE. 

After drafting the back as just described and shown in Fig. 37, take a 
plain basque sleeve to suit the arm size and place the top of the back seam 




Fig-. 37. 

at i, the armhole of the back, Fig. 37, and stick a pin at this point. Then 
with this point as a pivot move the sleeve so the curve of the armhole of 



THE DOLMAN. 



41 



the sleeve joins the curve of the armhole of the hack at J?, on the dotted 
line. 

With the fileeve in this position, dot all around it. Then stick a pin at S, 
the inside curve of the sleeve, and take the one at L out and using the pin 
at *S', as a pivot move that part of the sleeve at the wrist up to T, locating 
T at about the same heighth as *S'. Tlien mark from T to S, and continue 
toward 7", to within 3 inches thereof. From this point continue the curve 
on to jK', keeping inside of F, about 1 inch, and outside of X, i inch. That 
is, we take off the point at V, and extend the curve at X beyond the regu- 
lar sleeve curve ^ inch, or as much as wc shortened the shoulder at j5l. In 
other words, we must add to the sleeve at this point as much as we take off 
at the shoulder. 

That part of the sleeve which joins the back has the same curve as the 
back from K, through J? to iV, from which point the sleeve continues on 
down in a straight line to Z, 6 inches below the waist line, and then on to 
77 the length desired. It generally continues on down the back to a point 
2 inches below where the skirt of the front joins the back. The shape of 
the sleeve from T to IT varies according to fashion. Sometimes it is a 
regular curve from T to U, at others it is carried straight down from T 
and straight across from 77. 

The under part of this sleeve is the same from T to S. From ^S' it can 
be a regular curve to 7", the same as the curve of the front from Jf to F, 
Fig. ;^5. 

In,sewin</ in, the sleeve, the highest point of the sleeve goes to the highest point 
of the armhole. This brings point S of the sleeve to point H of the front. 

From H to F on the front. Fig. 85, and from S to 77 on the under part 
of the sleeve, Fig. 37, are sewed together, and a piece of tape stitched over 
the seam. 

The under part of the sleeve need not extend all the way fi'om S to f ^ 
It can stop ^ of the way if desired. The lower edge of the under piece is 
the same as the lower edge of the outside piece, and completes the sleeve as 
shown in Fig. 37. The lower edge of this sleeve is open. 

Apply the test measures first from the center of the back to T, and then 
the second measure from the center of the back through JS to a point a 
little above S. This completes the open sleeve. 

When you desire a sleeve closed along the loader edge. 

The front and back are diafted just the same, and the sleeve is made 
the same but is shaped differently at the bottom as is seen in Fig. 38. 
Draw a line straight out to the left from 77 to Y the lower edge of the 
sleeve, and a line straight down from T to Y, this gives the lower edge 
of the outside piece. To get the under part of the sleeve fold the paper 
on line Y JJ across the bottom, shape the end from Y to T, and T 
to S the same as the outside curve from S to 77. This makes the 
sleeve all in one piece as the goods are folded on the lower edge thus 
saving the seam there. The test-measure can be applied the same as be- 
fore. 

This is the favorite sleeve for winter wear. 



48 



THE MCDOWELL GARMENT DRAFTING MACHINE. 



TO HAVE THE BACK AND SLEEVE ALL IN ONE PIECE. 

Make the front the same as before shown, Fig. 35, and described on 
page 45. 

Make the back the same as before shown, Fig. 36, and described on 
page 45. 



V __ 




Fig". 38. 

Tlie sleeve is added just the same way but the back and sleeeve are cut 
all in one piece, that is the soani joining the sleeeve to the back is done 
away with. 

Cut the sleeve to suit the fashion. The closed sleeve just described and 
shown in Fig. 38 is very suitable for this style of back and sleeve in one. 

These samples will serve to give you a good idea of the Dolman, but to 
master it will require some practice as it is considered by some the most 
difficult trarment to make. 



HOW TO GET THE QUANTITY OF GOODS REQUIRED. 

This table gives the quantity of material re^juired to make the following 
garments, medium si;ie, for different widths of goods. 

The figures on the lines opposite the name of the garment, is the number 
of yards required to make it. At the top of each column is marked the 
width of the goods. So to get the quantity of material for different widths 
you have only to look in the different columns. 

To use the table lind the style of goods in the first column, go out to th^ 
right to the column marked with the width of the goods you want and 
there is the amount required. 



THE DOLMAN. 



49 



The table is based on 36 inches bust measure, and medium figure, and 
will be near enough right to be used for 34, 36, 38 without change. When, 
however, there is much deviation in size from the 36 bust, you can add or 
take off a little, as your judgment suggests. 



AMOUNT OF MATERIAL FOR DIFFERENT GAR- 
MENTS. 



DIFFERENT WIDTH OF GOODS IN INCHES. 



STYLE OF GARMENT. 

Belt Waist 

Sack " - 

Tiasque with 9 in. skirt 

" 13 " " 

Polonaise, short 

medium -_ 

Princess Wrapper with 6 in. train .. 
•' 10 " " -. 

A Princess with full train 

Coat, medium ■ 

" long double breasted 

Cape or Wrap, short 

Wrap, medium 

Cloak or Long Wrap 

Dolman, short ..- 

" medium 

" long - 

Suit, plain - 

' ' medium 

" fancy. 

Skirt, plain 

" fancy 

Overskirt - 

Sleeve, plain - 

" fancy 



18 



Yds. 

5 

6i 



9f 
12J 

in 

5i 



5 

H 

14| 

19| 
9-1 

m 
n 
u 

2i 



20 



Yds. 

H 

51 
71 
81 
11 
13f 
Ill- 
s' 
6 

21 
5i 

n 
u 

5" 

u 

15i 

m 

81 
11 
6f 

n 

2i 



23 



Yds. 
2 

4 
5 

"'8 

7 

8 

10 

I2i 
16' 

41 

5^ 

2l 

5 

7 

4 

^ 

5 
13 
14 
16 

8 
10 

6 

1 

3 



24 



Yds. 
1 s 

3i 

4| 
41 



lU 

14| 

4 

4| 
2i 
4|- 
Oi 

3i 
4 

m 

14| 

n 

8i 
5i 
1 
If 



27 



Yds 

u 

4 



^ 

8 

13 

31 
4i 
2 
4 
5f 
3i 
3| 
4 
91 
lU 
13" 



36 



Yds. 
H 
2i 
3 
3i 

H 

H 

6 

n 
^ 

3 

3 
3 

71 
8h 

n? 

*8" 

6 

3| 

u 



48 



Yds. 
1 

1| 
2i 

2i 

^ 

3| 

5| 

n 
2 

21 

H 

2i 
3i 

2| 

^ 

3| 

u 

2f 

i 
1 



GIRLS' AND MISSES'. 



A girl 7 years of age, requires 

For plain costume ----4 yards of 22 inch goods. 

« fancy " .- H " 

" cloak " -3 " 

A miss 14 years of age, requires 

For Ulster 2 ^ yards of goods 48 inch. 

" medmm costume « ^^ 

« fancy " --- 10 " " 22 " 

Plaiting, ruffling and shirring, as a rule, require three times the length 
you desire them to be when finished. 



60 THE MCDOWELL GABMENT DRAFTING MACHINE. 



HOW TO FIND THE QUANTITY OF MATERIAL IN A 
MADE UP GARMENT. 

I'iiid tlic iiiiinbiT of square iiiclics in each picci' of tlic i^arincnt and add 
tluin toiiX'tlier. This will trivo tlu' nuniherof square inches; to m't tlic 
nuuiltcr of yards, divide this amount hy the number of S(]uare indies in a 
yard of i;oods tiie w idlh you require. 

To do lliis, takt' tlie avera<;e Avidlh and len<;th of eacli piece in inclies. 
jNIuItiply tlu'm toi^ether and y(ju will get the square inches in each i)iece. 
Ad<l the inches in the several pieces together. 

When you measure plaits, folds or ruffles made up, take three times the 
square inches they contain, as they will re<|uire three times the amount of 
goods to make them u\>. 

In reducing the total amount of s(piare inches to yards, always multiply 
.■'(> inclies by the width of the goods. If the material is 20 inches wide 
you have 36x20^720 in each yard. An<l if the whole number of inches 
were 10,800, by dividing that by 720, gives 15 yards ; one yard in every 10 
is a<hled for loss, which addecl to 15, makes IGA yards of 20 inch goods. 
You can m;ike a very close measure with a little care. 



INDEX 



PaC4E 

Amount of goods required for dift'erent uarments .. 49 

Art of dressing 4 

Back of ]\Iachine, How to arrange 15 

" for a Waist, How to draft- 15 

" " Bas^que " " " 15 

" " Outside Garments 37 

" " Princess 31 

'• " Polonaise 33 

" " Coat, tight-fitting _. 36 

" ior f tiglit... 37 

" " " tight-fitting witli cross skirt _ 38 

" Sacque I or f tight 26 

" " Frencli Bas(iue 27 

'^ Coat 37 

" with three seams or four pieces 26 

" " five seams or six pieces 27 

" " curves and shoulder seams (combination) 27 

" How to widen at tlie waist 15 

" " " raise the slioulder-seam , 25 

" " " fit shoulders which drop to tlie front — 25 

" " " extend below the belt in the center of the back 20 

Basque plain 17 

" * tight.. 19 

" f tight 19 

" plaited, shirred, or gathered.. 29 

' ' low neck _ 29 

Basting 5 

Coats. 35 

Collars - 3!) 

Circulars and Capes - - 39 

Changes for outside garments 35 

Cross Skirts -. .-. 39 

Cutting and Fitting - - - 4 

Darts, How to get the size of 21 

" "arrange the tops ;. - 21 

" " " draft in any position 21 

" " " get the height of 9 

" "" " '• hip dart -. ..20.t22 

" " " " " " space between 1st and 2d 21 

" " " shape and finish -. — 6 

" "use. - -- 21 

" " " make hip dart any size., 23 

Dolmans 44 

Front of ]\Iachine, How to arrange.. - 17 

for Waist, How to draft 18 

" " " " Basque, " " " - 18 

" " " " " with two darts tight 24 

" " " " " " " " loose 19 

" three darts 18 

" " " " " " seam to shoulder 24 



INDKX. 

I'age 

Front of Machine for French Hastiuc 28 

" " " " Princess 30 

" " " " Polonuise 33 

" " " " Cojit, tight-fllting with cross skirt 38 

" double-breasted 22 

witli long skirt 23 

of Coats or Paletot i or J tight 35 

How to widen 22 

" witli opening in the back 25 

Front line, llow to curve 22 

Explanations and Suggestions 20 

Hints on Dressmaking 5 

II ip Dart 21 

Jackets, French 35 

Linings, How to cut G 

Low necks, How to make 29 

Measures, How taken. 7 

" " for outside garments 3."» 

" when wrong. The results i 12 

" for practise 14 

Outside Garments 3r» 

Plaits in the seams below the waist, How to add 30 

Princess 30 

Polonaise 33 

Quantit}' of Material, How to find 48 

" " " " " "in made up garments 50 

Sacques 10 v.\: 35 

Sacque back - 26 

Sleeve, How to draft 40 

" Various kinds 40 

Skirt, plain or gored... 33 

Skirt Rule and table for Basques, etc 20 

" " " " " Princess Ulsters, etc - 32 

Side Body of Machine, how to arrange - 16 

" " " " " " draft a Waist 10 

" " " " " " " "Basque 16 

" " with seams to the shoulder 26 

" " of Princess, etc 32 

" " "Polonaise 33 

" Coat, tight-titting 37 & 38 

" " ^ or S tight 37 

" " How to draft when the shoulders drop to the front 25 

Trains 31 

Ulsters 32 

Wrinkles, How to keep out 5 

Waists 15, 29 

Waists, long or short 23 

Yokes 29 



OUR DIAGRAM FOR SELF-MEASURE. 



Is intended to so illustrate and explain our measures, by showing 
where each one is taken, and telling hoAY it is to be done, that persons 
can take the diagram, and, Anth its aid, take a correct measure without 
the aid of the dressmaker. 

The advantage of this arrangement is to enable you to continue your 
work for your customers even when they are absent, and to allow you 
to make up garments for those many miles distant, even if you never 
saw them. 

All you need is for the party to fill out the diagram you send her, 
according to its directions, and write you the style she wants it made up, 
or send you a fashion cut from a magazine, and you are as well prepared 
to do her work as though she was present. 

We propose to make this diagram so plain that it can always be relied 
on, and if its directions are followed you can guarantee a fit with full 
confidence, without ever seeing your customer. 



THE PRICE FOR DIAGRAMS: 

1 sent by mail, . . . I .10 

10 a a .50 

25 an 1.00 



LXBRORy OF 




CONGRESS 



0,3 gy--*mm 



TESTI MON I A LS 



"It is eliui)ly immeuse. 



Further eouiineiit is iiiiiifc-ossarv. 

•• W. A. Sl'KNrKR ct CO., Boston, Mass." 



" I have been very successful with the machine, anil shall never regret the purchase. 

" Miss M. SHAW, 70 Genesee St., Utica, N. Y." 

"Although I luid S. T. Taylor's system before I got yours, 1 think yours much superior 
:iiiil nmre easily learned. ' "Mks. S. FORD, 

" 017 Spring Garden Street, Philadelphia." 



••After testing several leading systems, I have adopted the Garment-Drafting Machine, 
aud am now u.sing it very successfully. I have no fitting to do. and patterns cut l)y it tit 
without the slightest alteration. 1 recommend it to all tirst-class dress and pattern makers. 
"Mus. J. M. MOKIAKTY, l'2:i3 Chestnut Street, Philadelphia." 



'•r2o CoruT Street, Brooklyn, N. Y., Feb. 26, 1883. 
"The McDowell G.vu.ment-Duaftino Machine Co. 

" Geiilla/iin : 1 have had ten yeans' experience in dress cutting, and have used three sys- 
tems. The one previous to your'Drafting Machine was S. T. Tavlor's system, which 1 used 
for three years successfully, but gladly laid it aside for yours, and find that I can do better 
work and in less than one-fifth of the "time. I take ])leasure in recommending it to all who 
wish to reach perfection in their art. I am, gentlemen, yours, vtc, 

"LAURA DAVENPORT." 



"Mu. A. McDowell. 

".Si;-.- I have one of your Dress-Drafting Machines, which I have had in constant use 
for over two years. It has always given the best satisfaction, in fact my success in oi)erat- 
ing the machine has gone far beyond my most sanguine ex|iectatiuns. J think it is the lead- 
ing method for Dress Cutting. 1 take great pleasure in recommending it to my friends, and 
think I do them a service in advising tliem to buy one. I am happy to learn tliat ycmr busi- 
ness is increasing so rapidly and yoii have my best wishes for your success, as I think the 
Inventor of so useful an article deserves it. Yours, itc., 

"MARY M. WATSON, 
" 73 N. Main St., Patersou, N. J., Feb. 23d, 1883." 



" Newark, April 19th, 1883. 
"Mr. McDowell. 

" Sir: 1 have been using one of your Garment-Drafting Machines for over a vear, aud in 
that time I have cut over .500 dresses and have had little or no fitting to do. It is beyond 
doubt, in my mind, the most rapid, accurate, and best method of dress cutting in existence. 
No money could buy mine from me if I could not replace it. 

"It is all ami iiu>n than you have claimed for t, and could dressmakers in general but 
give it a trial, they would lind the trouble, care and anxiety jSroduced bv other systems dis- 
placed by the comfort and satisfaction resulting from graceful and perfect work. It will 
afford me great i)leasure to recommend it to all mv ac<iuaintances interested in dress- 
making. Yours res].e(tfu"llv, 

" Mrs. R. HARRISON, 'i^W Mulberry St., Newark, N. J. 

" For the past four yeais with W. S. Hedemsino, 0S"J Broad St., Newark, N. J." 

" Chicago, August loth, 1882. 
"Mr. a. McDowell. 

" Sir: In reply to your question as to how I like the (iarment-Drafting Machine at pres- 
ent, I can but say that the more I use it, the more I see to admire in it, and the morel would 
dislike to part with it. During my twenty-nine years' expeiienee as a dressmaker I have 
tested and used all the leading charts and .sfiuare systems in the market, and found nothing 
to come up to my standard, or nothing that (-ould be dei)ended ujion for all form.s. Having 
ex|)erinH-nted in my own way to overcome the objections found in the systems in use, I was 
agreeably sur|>rised to see how your little machine came up to my ideal in so perfect and 
simple a numncr. I saw at a glance that it would fit all forms from measure, and save no 
end . if time and trouble. It is the only valuable imiJrovemcnt for drafting garments in- 
vented during the last twenty-nine years. It is new and ])ractical. and will l)e adopted by 
all artibtie cutters a.s soon as they test it. All it needs is a trial. Your method not oidy 
saves time for both the cutter and the customer, but gives a grace and comfort admired by 
all. Your plan for fittini: s(|uare or slojiing shoulders and your system of darts for princesses 
are the admiration of all first-class cutters, and the oidy "perfec"t method. I wish you suc- 
cess because you deserve it. Yours, <Sic.. 

"D. W. HAWKINS, Modiste, 499 Wabash Ave. 

" P- S. — You can clothe it in the strongest terms possible, and you cannot overdo my 
l>raise." 



J 



